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Discussion on Picking up his hind feet | |
Author | Message |
New Member: Kelsey |
Posted on Sunday, Feb 22, 2004 - 11:10 am: Hi! I have an 8 month old horse named Apache}}. I can pick up and clean his front feet without a problem. Then when i get to his back feet i am scared he will kick me. How can i pick his back feet up, clean them, and not get kicked? |
Member: Dres |
Posted on Sunday, Feb 22, 2004 - 11:26 am: personally i think picking up the hind feet is safer... a rearing horse or one that falls on you is awful...stand very close to the horse as in you hip touching his back leg... when bent over with hoof in hand... make sure you keep your position.. they will see / saw with the leg, but if you stay close and have a firm grip, i believe its a safer place to be then the front hoofs.. isn't all this stuff fun..?? Ann |
Member: Jerre |
Posted on Sunday, Feb 22, 2004 - 1:26 pm: Michael, you can do a lot to desensitize your colt from a safe distance. Halter him and hold the lead. Use a dressage or lunge whip to stroke the leg. Don't take it away if he kicks -- only when he STOPS kicking. Use a long, soft rope to toss gently over his butt and let it slide down his hind legs. Push his hind end away from you if there's any "activity." This shows your leadership, that you can cause him to yield away from you.But stop and breathe deeply and pet him when he's quiet behind. When he tolerates the whip and rope sliding around his hind legs, you can approach as Ann describes. Youngsters lose their balance, so it's important to stay really close -- pressed up to his side, and hang on! He can't get much energy behind his kick if you're right next to him. And help him put his leg down -- keep holding it all the way to the ground, then stroke it before letting go and backing away toward his head. I went through all this with my filly -- never having worked with a baby before. For a while I thought I'd have to tatoo the image of her little hoof on my thigh, because as soon as the bruise would start to fade, she'd "renew" it. Now I can walk up to her in the paddock and politely ask for her hind legs and she's fine -- good for the farrier, too. And I pet her all over and walk CLOSE behind her, hand on her back or butt, my side brushing her butt as I walk behind. Make sure to play with his tail, too. |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Sunday, Feb 22, 2004 - 1:48 pm: Michael,Have you read the article under: Horse training/ Training your horse's mind/ Working around horses safely ? It describes how to correctly pick and hold a hind leg. From that point on, there are several things you can do or not do to minimise the possibility of being kicked: - Be calm. The horse can see your nervousness, and it will think something fishy is going on. - Clip a long lead rope on the halter, and tie a knot in it a bit before it reaches the hind leg. Never let your hand slip past that knot. - Hold the tail and the lead rope (attached to the halter)in one hand while you ask for the leg with the other hand. - Never allow the horse to step forward when you're working on the hind end. If he does, turn his head your way so the hind end moves away from you. - If things go wrong, jerking on the lead rope usually sends the head up and plants the hind legs on the ground. - After you pick the leg up, turn the hoof so it faces upwards and keep it that way the full time. - Only pull the leg backwards or sideways as much as the horse is comfortable, which will not be much the first times. - Avoid touching the lower flank, the front of the gaskin and the stifle. Many horses, especially mares, get very annoyed there. - If you feel like bailing out, DrOp the leg and move towards the horse's shoulder. This is important! The only step you should take if things go wrong is the one towards the shoulder! - Do not fight to hold a leg that the horse is definitely pulling away. Let go, then pick it up again. - Do not put the hoof on the ground when you're done. Just mind where your feet are and let it DrOp. |
Member: Hwood |
Posted on Sunday, Feb 22, 2004 - 4:42 pm: Just a thought from someone who has been nailed twice while standing at a horse's shoulder:I would step out and away from the hind leg, not toward the shoulder. Horses can cowkick forward as well as kicking to the back, but their hip sockets don't allow them to go out to the side in the hind . . . that's why it is important when working on hinds that we pull them straight back behind the horse, and not out to the side. It is painful for a horse to lift it's hinds to the side. |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Monday, Feb 23, 2004 - 1:50 am: Holly,I have also been taught that horses are in pain when their hinds extend too much sideways, but I have reason to doubt it. It may depend on the horse, or some horses may not mind the pain that much. I have seen a horse kick with both hinds to the side and land both on the chest of a man that was standing 3ft perpendicular to its stifle. There's a "funny" video on the net, of a very nasty side kick, over a beam that must have been some 2ft high. Believe me, horses can easily kick anywhere within a hind leg's radius around them. Close to the shoulder will not guarantee safety, you may get kicked, bitten etc, but it is still the safest place to be around a misbehaving horse. |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Monday, Feb 23, 2004 - 8:53 am: Here is my 2 cents and a question. I did the same stuff jere has done and it work well when my colt at 4 months old. Now at 9 mo. he wants to kick at feeding time or messing with back feet so I touch and rub my walking stick along his butt and back feet while he is eating and scold him when he starts to lift his leg.While feeling for my young rescue colts testicles, he kicked out sideways with his hind legs as if to say EXCUSE ME! what do you think your doing. Christos Why DrOp the foot. I have always heard not to do this as it is painful and my cause negative behavior when messing with their feet. I have always been told to gently put the foot back on the ground. Colleen |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Monday, Feb 23, 2004 - 9:53 am: I start a lot of horses, both young and some older horses that have had no work whatsoever. This method has worked extremely well for me, and it seems to take very little time. First, as mentioned before, I do a lot of stroking with a stick or lunge whip and the rope. I do not quit until kicking quits, and then the release. I repeat this until there is no kicking whatsoever. I then take a long lead rope and put a loop in the end .. make sure it is not a slip knot. You do not want it to tighten, just keep an 8" to 10" diameter loop. This step requires a little practice but will soon become easy to perform. Again, standing close to the side of the horse, out of kicking and "cow" kicking range, I push lightly on the hip until the horse has to pick up his leg to move over a tad. After a few pushes, he will begin to pick up foot almost imediately. I then work on getting the loop around the rear foot, this is the part that takes practice, but eventually, the horse basically steps into it. I will then work with pushing on hip and lifting rope slightly when the horse picks up his foot. Try to hold a second longer than the horse wants, and then gently let the foot back down. This is where I agree with Colleen, do not let the foot DrOp violently causing pain or discomfort because we are trying to gain trust and respect. After very few repetitions, there is little resistance. I then push the hip, lift the rope and then hold foot in my other hand, again holding a few seconds and then placing foot back on the ground. Eventually the cue of pushing on hip tells the horse to give me the foot .. I have a couple of horses now that hand me the foot so fast, you have to be ready for it. For the fronts, my cue is to push on the shoulder. The last horse was a 2yo app filly who did not want me near her legs. Within 45 minutes of this procedure, I trimmed all 4 with no resistance at all.DT |
Member: Alden |
Posted on Monday, Feb 23, 2004 - 10:38 am: Michael, as always a lot of good advice here, but you have to control your emotions. There is a BIG (in my book anyhow), goofy warm blood cross in your stables. A friend and I have both picked this horse’s hind feet and he stands like a statue, but I swear when his owners get a hold of a back foot he starts acting up just to see these people scatter like quail! All the horse has to do is shift his weight and they are over the fence! And this horse hasn’t a mean bone in him, he is just big (and a lot playful)! The trick is knowin’ when to hold them, and when to fold them.Good day, Alden |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 3:18 am: Well, Colleen,First, I do not believe it is painful for the horse to let the hoof DrOp to the ground. Hooves hit the ground with unbelievable force during work, stomping, kicking etc, so DrOpping a hoof with just the leg's weight on it will not hurt a bit. I suggest to let DrOp instead of gently putting it on the ground because many horses will "kick" at the exact moment they feel you do not really mean to hold any more. So when you let go, I think it is better to let go somehow fast, and with your head above stifle level. It is for the same reason that one should take a break when tired during shoeing. Many horses are just too fast to reclaim their leg when they feel your hold getting weak or sluggish. |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 3:46 am: The link to the "funny" video ishttps://darenp.co.uk/funny/branded.mpg Please, note the mistakes: Had the man been 2ft to the right, the handlers on his side and keeping the horse's nose to the right and higher up, this wouldn't have happened. |
Moderator: DrO |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 8:55 am: A powerful piece of film that all folks who work around horses needs to see. The worse kick I ever got was collecting embryos standing behind a sedated and twitched mare who was in a set of stocks.DrO |
Member: Alden |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 11:45 am: Unfortunately most horse owners have no idea how fast a THEIR horse can seriously hurt them. Too many of us ignore safety and treat our horses as pets.Dr. O, in light of you experience, which would you prefer: a horse in a set of stocks, or in the open able to move if necessary? I ask because our stables have been considering buying a set. I’m not convinced yet the stocks are the best idea. Is it possible we set up a kicking situation, or some other train wreck, by making them feel trapped and the horse doesn’t have any other option (at least in the horse’s mind)? Christos, I have to disagree with you on how to put the foot down. I think that by DrOpping the foot you are teaching the horse to take their foot back when you relax your grip. By slowly lower the foot and moving it in small circles anytime I feel them tighten up, I can lower the foot to the ground and rest it on the toe. By consistently doing this the horse will leave the foot where ever I put it. Of course they won’t stand three legged all day, young and old horses should be given even more slack. Your other points are excellent and the video should be mandatory for new horse owners. Good day, Alden |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 12:10 pm: ChristosThanks for explaining your reasoning although I dont agree. I dont know if it is painful to DrOp the foot, but I know there is a difference in controlling your own movements and having your movements abruptly manipulated by someone else (which can be painful). I have accidentally DrOpped my horses foot and get a startled reaction along with a LOOK. As far as the explaination of DrOpping the foot to not get kicked, I can see one might do this for safety working with an untrained dangerous horse as an exception (it seems that you work with a lot of badly trained or dangerous horses). But as far as teaching a horse to give foot, I would do as described by the other posts using gentle consistant movements gaining trust, then you dont need to be concerned about being kicked.(Your video reminds us that danger is always present, thanks.) Perhaps the horse,upon feeling your grip soften, kicks as a reaction to anticipating you abruptly plopping the foot down? Colleen |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 2:29 pm: Coleen,The horse is supposed to hold the whole weight of that leg when you are working, so there should be no abrupt movement and no startling when you let it DrOp. As for safety, you are right, I am always trying to include and reflect in my descriptions any dangerous situation I have seen. Not what I think could go wrong, just the things I have really seen happening. All I want to say is that safe practices exist and they are working. From that point on, how much one relaxes his adherence to safety is, of course, a personal matter. |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 2:52 pm: ChristosWell I must be doing it wrong. Although they dont put their weight on me, when I am picking their feet, they are relaxed and the foot is resting in my hands so if I let go it DrOps to the ground. So how do you get them to hold the foot up rigid on their own so that it stays up if you let it go. |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 3:08 pm: Ditto Colleen ...I don't have many horses who hold their foot up on their own while I work on them. They will rest it in my hand, on my leg, or whatever device I might be using. If I just DrOp the foot, it plops to the ground and causes obvious displeasure, if not pain. Also, as a point of trust, I want them to understand that giving me the foot is OK and putting it back down is OK too. I agree, in dangerous situation, DrOp it and get out of there. Just gives us more training we can work on later ... don't want to get bored you know. DT |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 3:52 pm: Dear Coleen,You are right, I apologise, my post should read: "I prefer the horse to hold the whole weight of that leg when I am working..." The horse can not, of course, do that with the leg extended for any useful length of time, so I do work "under" the horse. As you have successfully noted earlier, I do work a lot with funny horses, and I feel better close to them. Given the added benefit that in this position the horse easily holds the leg by itself, I do not plan to change it any time soon. From the classic, extended position, you are absolutely right, DrOpping the hoof all of a sudden is rude, upsetting, possibly painful and may very well provoke a kick. As for extending the leg or not, I do not think there's right or wrong, it is just a matter of preference and convenience depending on the size of the horse... |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 4:30 pm: CristosI apologize if I sounded as though I was suggesting you change the way you do things. I am often curious as to why you and others do certain things especially if it is contradictory to what I have learned. Although I may not agree with your techniques sometimes, I am not suggesting you are wrong I am just trying to get a better understanding as I feel I always have something to learn. |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 4:38 pm: I would appriciate suggestions for this on picking up the hind feet. I normanlly hold a lead when working with my young ones feet(which I havent been doing as I should). Now when attempting to pick up the hind foot, he reaches around and tries to bite me. Should I tie him to keep his head forward while working with the hind feet even if he has a fit or is there a better way to nip this in the bud.Colleen |
Member: Liliana |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 4:45 pm: Hello Michael,Just a quick bit of advice. Try as hard as you can to remember the first time you ever picked your 8month old colt/filly feet. Horses have an extremely good memory and if you were nervous, or lifted to high or to far out he/she will remember that as a bad experience, and will react accordingly. As Alden mention horses can be angels with some people and terrible with their owners. Perhaps if you go back to the beginning, make friends with your 8 month old, make him trust you. . After all they have four legs and at that age, they are still finding them and if you take one away… My colt is a year old now, needles to say he is very easy to handle, farrier comes and picks his feet (of course does not shoe him) we have started training and as he trusts 100% he will do anything we ask! Which really is handy when we consider that they can hurt us pretty bad if they put their mind to it, but, gently does it has worked wonders, he is the most trusting and gentle animal I have ever come across. And it really is worth spending the time if you intend to be around him for a while and have the privilege to start from the beginning instead of having to cure deep rooted problems. Prevention is better than the cure, and tracing back you movements quite often is the key |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 5:02 pm: I accept your apology, Coleen (just kidding)My way of doing things is lightyears from perfect, and any suggestions to correct it for mine or my horse's benefit is more than welcomed. It is your disagreement that I need in order to improve my horsemanship, not your agreement. |
Member: 36541 |
Posted on Tuesday, Feb 24, 2004 - 9:16 pm: I've read all the interesting posts. I would like to add that I teach all my young horses(warmblood babies) their handling issues in a solid set of tried-and-true crossties on a non-slip mat. There's less moving around in general, and they learn that while they are in there, its their job to pay attention, behave, get the scratch and rare piece of carrot. You can spend relatively little for this training tool using 2 6x6s, 2 bags of Quik-crete thick screw eyes and cotton rope. I used pea gravel on clay until I could get the mat. Stacy Upshaw |
Moderator: DrO |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 7:15 am: Hello Alden,The above case was back in the early days of xylazine use before we were well aware of the reactive kicks that can occur with the use of this sedative. Though I continue to palpate many horses in the open without a twitch, I much prefer a set of stocks. It is not so much a safety issue as it is the horse is kept still. The important point is that the stocks do not insure safety, you must always judge your patients temperment and act accordingly. DrO |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 8:27 am: For anybody interested in shoeing stocks, www.horseshoes.com has a nice article about constructing one.Just keep in mind that whatever construction your tractor can pull apart, the average horse can as well if it panics. It really needs to be that sturdy. |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 8:57 am: Colleen .... I use cross-ties for this work as Stacy outlined. One thing to remember, if you are also working your horse on leading and ground manners, they will get very astute to only slight pressure on the lead rope. I had a young man helping me with some of my young ones, and he was holding the lead as you describe when trying to work with hind feet. He did not even realize it because it was so slight, that as he moved to the rear, he was taking some of the slack out of the rope and the horse was following with his head. This is great, because that is the kind of sensitivity you want, but he thought the horse was just being difficult. In trying to correct this, he was actually counter acting the ground work we had previously done. When the horse is responding well, it takes very little pressure to get results. Just a thought to consider ..DT |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 9:25 am: Sorry if this is a little off the original topic.Stacy and Dennis Thank you for the advice. I don’t have a place to cross tie, but really need one so I’m am going to construct one. So, I normally sink post 3', is this deep enough for the strength of a young horse. How far apart should I put the posts and how high the eye screws? Any other details? Anyone want to come help dig the holes? Dennis thanks for the insite on being aware of the tension in the lead rope. This is something often overlooked. Im sure the other day Tonka just wanted to bit me. I noticed a great deal of slack in the rope as I looked back at him bringing his head back to nip me while he thought I wasnt looking. |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 9:52 am: Colleen .... 3 foot should be deep enough and I usually try to get posts about 6 to 8 feet apart. Screw eyes approximately 4' height for standard horse (I work primarily with Quarter horses and Apps). I know from the posts that this is not standard for many of you. The important thing is to have the eyes at a height that is not too low so that horse can easily get feet over the ties, and not so high that they feel pressure from holding head up. The ties should have enough slack to eliminate pressure allowing for upward and downward movement, but again not low enough to get feet over. It is important that your horse be trained to these ties early so they will not fight them. Generally, if you have taught a go forward cue in your earlier training, this is sufficient to keep the horse from backing up and pulling on the cross ties. As he pulls the first few times, give the forward cue to eliminate the pull. They learn this fairly easily. As with everything else, early ground training is the building block for all that follows. I only say this because if you take a green horse and just slap him in the ties, you may have a battle on your hands. I find the cross ties handy for many uses, trimming, medicating, grooming, etc. As for the holes, You are on your own Darlin'. I'd love to help, but you are just too far away.DT |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 11:11 am: Thanks again Dennis. My main use for this will be for the two colts. The mares stand well for me with just halter and lead. Tying is something I have never been good at. It always makes me nervous that they will injure themselves pulling and having a fit.Colleen |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 11:24 am: Your concern is warranted Colleen. I never tie and leave unattended. That's just asking for a wreck of some kind. But that said, I do find the cross ties extremely useful for many tasks.DT |
Member: 36541 |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 11:59 am: Hi Colleen.I have built a few sets of crossties in different locations over the years and will offer a few tips. Agree with Dennis - put an 8ft 6x6 3 ft in the ground and put in a bag of 40lb Quik-crete. Add water in the hole with the hose - you don't have to mix the crete separately. Put the eyes at 4ft. The posts are ideal eight feet apart. For a super model(and essential if you are building the unit outside), especially with young ones, duplicate the posts 8 ft apart but 10 -12 ft down from the head posts - a little beyond where the tail is going to be on a grown horse. This will allow you to mount four 2x6 rails(one on either side of each set of poles) at 3 1/2 feet lengthwise, kind of framing the horse in. You can then put a 10-12 inch x 10 feet strip of plywood on top, making an exceptionally handy shelf, on either side if you'd like. I always let the posts sit three days before use. I have found you can rent a 13-16 yo boy or two for $5/hr and they really get off on digging those holes! When first putting a greenie in, I tie an old hand nearby, and sometimes put a haynet up for the baby. Hope this is clear and good luck. You will find this a very worthwhile investment, adding to you enjoyment of all your horse handling. Your horse will learn to wait if you have to go get something or take a leak, and the vet and farrier will likely be appreciative. Stacy |
Member: Rjbraun |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 12:17 pm: Hi about tieing a horse . I am in so. tx. and they tie horses to a tree branch above there head so they can not lay down .They stand there all day.No water or feed all day . |
Member: Liliana |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 2:17 pm: Well well, Robert silly me, I thought that form of barbaric treatment only applied to third world countries???!!!Its is so sad to see that in places were people can read and write (I assume) they still have not caught on with the fact that horses are living beings that have needs too. Perhaps if you try to stand for five minutes with your head leaning backwards, you would understand just how uncomfortable that is!. The worst thing is, that when horses complain because their back hurts people punish them for misbehaving. (and we are the smart ones on the planet!!) Perhaps if you ask your Texan mates to look in the Internet. Hell, just look in this site and check the anatomy of horses (that is their muscles, bone structure,ligaments), (yes they do have them) to check just how they are formed, then perhaps they will stop doing it. They do read, don´t they?. Or are they so darn Texan!!! |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 2:27 pm: ooooops ..... looks like Robert's done it againI'm outa' here ... on to next topic. DT |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 2:42 pm: RobertI think tying above their head is very dangerous. If they spook and their feet come out from under them they could hang themselves or break their neck. I know of someone who tied a rope around a horses neck and tied it to a limb above its head (STUPID STUPID). It spooked, fell and the rope tightened. Luckily, they were near by and cut the rope before it strangled or broke its neck. I know of another instance a horse (borrowed) was tied to a tree near a train track. The people left the horse unattended, train came by spooked the horse and it hung itself trying to get free. Mybe this is why I have trouble with tying horses. Im not even going to comment on leaving them with no food or especially water all day. Colleen |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 3:08 pm: Liliana, Dennis,Tying a horse on a long, high branch with just a little bit of slack is a very good method of teaching a horse to tie. The branch has to be long, so the horse does not get injured on the trunk, and high, so it won't hit its head should it rear. The horse finds very easily the "neutral" place where there's no tension on the rope. It is Bob's misconception that the rope had not much slack in order to prevent the horse from lying down. Of course, penalising an animal with hunger, thirst and abandonment is criminal attitude, prosecuted, I believe, all around the globe. |
Member: Dres |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 3:23 pm: i will have to agree here with Christos.. when i teach my young horses to tie, its high , off a sturdy branch so that if they pull they are not pulling from the ground or shoulder level ( which i am told can cus severe pain/damage to a young horses neck/back) and if they rear and lunge forward they can't smack into the tree truck..as far as no water.. well i hope Robert does not practice that himself.. Ann |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 3:30 pm: Christos and Ann ...Agreed .. in fact, on overnight rides when we picket, we string a rope high between 2 trees so we can tie off above head for safety. I was only reflecting that the post was beginning a new direction and that ole' Bob was probably gonna' get some more tongue lashings. As for the food and water ... that's a no brainer in my book. Hang them high as well... DT |
Member: Rjbraun |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 4:11 pm: Looks like old Bob opened a another can of worms!I kept my horse by some AMERICAN MEXICANS yes after water and morning feeding at about 10 o clock to the trees and merry go around.till 5 0 clock then in for the night.I would go out and ride and then bath my horse water him,and retie him.This happens all around here.And they all are very well. |
Member: Liliana |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 5:17 pm: Bob,With all due respect, there is a right way of doing things and a wrong way of doing things. Just because it has been done forever does not necessarily means it is right. Some time ago people thought that bleeding with leaches was right. Without wanting to offend, I would like to ask you, how long do people keep their horses for before selling them? How long do these horses have a full working life? What you describe happens all the time in Cozumel and it is horrendous to see horses with no spirit left in them, just taking all the BS people throw at them. Does that mean being fine? |
Member: Rjbraun |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 6:47 pm: Please do not misunderstand me,I DID NOT SAY I APPROVE OF THIS !I now have my new horse were they do not do this,I was only putting my input into the subject.I would take my horse back to Wi. Boy did he love fredom and green grass. |
Member: Thomboy |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 7:01 pm: I was enjoying this thread until, all of a sudden, I figured out that I could not read. Thank you Liliana for pointing that out for me!!!"They do read, don´t they?. Or are they so darn Texan!!!" |
Member: Liliana |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 7:47 pm: Hey Melissa,Gosh you are temperamental, I did not mean to upset anyone. I just get very passionate about animals in general. Gosh even Bob seems to have spared my life!!! On this note, I have some great friends from Texas... |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 8:13 pm: Back to tying. Has no one else had a problem with tying a horse higher than its head and having it loose footing. It just dosent seem like a safe thing. Seems more dangerous that hitting their head on a limb or jummping into the tree trunk. I am also a little confused as to cross tying at 4ft., but tying by a lead rope say 6-7 ft. Can I get a little more enlightenment on this( its possible Im totally confused) then maybe I can put to rest one of my tying fears. Thanks.Bob, you sure know how to get everyone hot! Liliana, I dont like to think there is a right way and a wrong way. Because everyone has their own way and that would be like saying there is a wrong way to do things and then there is my way. I do understand your passion tho. I went horseback riding in Cosumel once. Seeing those horses was very disturbing. Also, I think they are using leaches again. Colleen |
Member: Dres |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 8:19 pm: my girl friend is a trauma nurse.. and yes they do use leaches still.. she brings them out of a glass jar and places them where she is told.. the nurses name the little slugs...ewwwwwwwwwwwww... i hate hearing her stories... Ann |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Wednesday, Feb 25, 2004 - 9:14 pm: Anni think they would have to pay me extra for that. I hate leaches. The time my horse and I fell deep into the pond, the only thing I could think about was if I had any leaches on me! Colleen |
Member: Dtranch |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 8:23 am: Colleen .... Perhaps a little confused on the tying.My preference, if I have to tie. I always try to tie at least head high ... and I always tie close (no more than a foot or two of rope left). I don't want my horse to get his head down to eat or whatever as he may get a foot over the rope and panic sets in. As for the cross ties, I tie at 4 foot height. You have about 4 feet of rope, but it is on each side, so the horse still can not get head down, or feet over. When I picket, it is the same theory .. picket rope at least head high with no more than 2 feet of rope extending to horse. Hope this clears things up .. from my perspective anyway. DT |
Member: 36541 |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 10:16 am: Colleen,You can use a standard lead with a big brass snap tied in to the screw eyes with a slip knot. When I set up my ties, the snap touches the ground if there is no horse in. This is a starting point, I might loosen or tighten the leads for each horse, depending on its size and familiarity with the unit. Find that money-hungry teen yet? Stacy |
Member: Jjet |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 12:59 pm: I was looking at the controversy centered around Robert's post. We have had problems like this before. Before responding too strongly, it is a good idea to make sure that the person you are upset with is saying what you think they are saying; that person may not have expressed himself clearly.A good way to do this is to rephrase the part you are in disagreement with and ask them if that's what they really meant. I think that most everyone who posts on this site has the horses' best interests at heart. My question to Robert is, did you mean that the horses in question were tied with their heads held abnormally high all day? No question that not being offered water all day is an abusive practice. I'm glad to hear you got your horse out of there. |
Member: Rjbraun |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 3:29 pm: Hi Jan, no there was slack in line about the same as a go around .But not as much so that they could lay down.Bob, |
Member: Jjet |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 4:29 pm: Thanks for the reply, Robert. What is a go round? Is it the length of a coil in a rope? Jan |
Member: Alden |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 5:47 pm: There have been studies done on watering methods (see General Care/Drinking Water for Horses), watering intermittently isn’t necessarily detrimental to the horse. Of course there are many factors to consider, but there are time when continues access isn’t practical.A person could just look at wild herds also; there isn’t a water trough behind every tree. The lead mare leads the herd to the water hole 2-3 times a day, if their lucky. Tying high is generally accepted as the best method on the trail. I was told early on to tie at a point above the withers. Tied that way they can only pull with their body weight. Tied below their withers they can pull harder with leverage and shoulder muscles. Although I would think either could cause neck injuries. There was a new thread started on tying horse, there is good stuff there. Good day, Alden |
Member: Rjbraun |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 6:29 pm: HI JAN again, I call it a go around its a exercise machine like a merry go round has a place to tie horses to ,turn it on and around they go.Bob. |
Member: Goolsby |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 6:55 pm: Ok,thanks. I was thinking from the description that tying high was the rope tied on a branch way above the head. I genereally tie between the mouth and eye(head level) the situations I described were where the horse was tied way above the head so that if it went down its neck was streched. Thanks for clearing up my confusion.Stacy- No. You would think between my husband and a 26 and 20 yr old son I could get a little help. Colleen |
Member: Jjet |
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 11:12 pm: Robert: Oh, I see. Around here they're called hot walkers.Alden: Of course there are exceptions with regard to practicality at times, but a daily routine of leaving a horse tied without any access to water for the entire day is not one of them in my book. We all go thirsty now and then, but not every day. |