|
|
Discussion on Tying a horse
|
| Author |
Message |
Member:
Christos
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 9:53 am:
Colleen,
First, any method of tying must be with ropes and knots that will release easily whilst under tension if things go wrong. There are many safety devices for quick release, but I do not trust them and have never used them.
Ask your closest group of climbers for some guidance on knots and ropes that will serve the best. You may also obtain some old or damaged dynamic rope from them, useless and unsafe for climbing, yet absolutely magnificent for tying horses.
It has some 8-10% stretch if a horse fights it, pretty much what you need to almost eliminate the possibility of shock injuries.
It is advisable that the end of the rope that releases the knot is long enough for someone to pull it without having to approach the horse.
Tying a horse high is, in my opinion, the safest and kindest method. Still, wrecks happen. I saw once a horse hanging upside down by the halter, legs in the air and croup on the ground. That leaves you kind of helpless, because cutting the rope or releasing it abruptly will slam the withers on the ground. That is another reason the releasing end must be long, so you can twist it around the tree or a pole for extra braking before you pull the final two inches to release.
A weak link, like a loop of string or a breakaway halter should always be used when tying a schooled horse, so it breaks if the horse panics. But one should not use it in training a horse to tie.
When training, the rig should hold, end to end, no matter how strongly the horse fights. You only release if it panics, not because it is angry. If the horse fights it, be prepared, it may easily be the most spectacular demonstration of power you have ever seen.
Last, should you ever deal with a horse strong and crazy enough to break a strong halter on 10ft of dynamic rope, tie a firm, non-tightening loop with the rope around its girth, pass the end between the front legs, through the halter ring and tie it up high. This has worked for me with a very difficult mare. Actually, she barely objected this, whilst she had gone through several halters an hour earlier.
|
Member:
Dtranch
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 10:27 am:
Christos ... Good point I overlooked to mention. I always tie with a "quick release" knot. I can release with one pull if horse is in danger. Only 1 small problem ... I have some horses who have also figured this out and can untie them selves with one quick pull. So much for "stupid" animals ... huh
DT
|
Member:
Alden
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 10:43 am:
I've been using these for all tying, including in the trailer, now for about six months. https://www.clintonanderson.net/products/tie.html. It works!
Several people in our stables are using them with great success on horses that previously couldn’t be tied. Even on the worst halter breaker it not only provides a safe tie that slips if pulled on hard enough but teaches the horse not to pull.
By the rope slipping the horse gets immediate pressure release when they stop pulling, unlike a bungee type of tie, hence they learn not pulling equals relief. On a puller you have to use a 20+ foot rope so they have a chance to stop pulling. I also tie my young horses with this and “scary object” train them. Even my “jump at everything” mare doesn’t pull now when tie with this, even when kids, bikes, dogs, rabbits, tumble weeds, etc run by.
DISCLAIMER: I wish I had thought of these and were selling them. But I didn’t 
Good day,
Alden
|
Member:
Hwood
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 12:05 pm:
YES, YES, Alden!!!! The Blocker Tie Rings are stupendous . . . A friend who photographs for Clinton Anderson, spent time at the Blocker Ranch this past August, and he brought me a few tie rings . . . When I introduced them to some other folks, the tie rings were "pooh-poohed" as new-fangled gadget, and I was told that the best thing for teaching a horse to stand tied is to plant a railroad tie in the middle of a pen and tie the horse to a chain and innertube or to teach him to ground tie . . . Well, as many of you know, ground tying isn't taught much on the east coast, but I believe the Blocker Tie Ring works on the same principle . . . The horse CAN move, so doesn't feel caught . . . and when he realizes that he isn't "stuck," the fear subsides and he learns that it's okay to stand there. I can't sing the praises of the Blocker Tie Ring enough . . . especially since EQUUS had an article last year about the neck and back injuries that are often the source of many lamenesses . . . and that those injuries can come from horses struggling with being tied.
You can also visit: www.blockerranch.com
|
Member:
Lilo
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 1:57 pm:
I have been intrigued with this concept. I would like to use it inside and outside the trailer - I typically don't have to tie tightly when at home. I just loop the rope around the fence rail two or three times. Unfortunately, my mare knows how to undo that if she is left unattended for a long time. That same mare went over backwards about a year ago - she had moved around and gotten her rope snagged on a plastic "Pas-A-Fier" - panicked, reared, the plastic "toy" that was supposed to entertain her broke, and over she went. Very, very scary. My question: How to attach it to the trailer rings. I was thinking about tying it with a nylon rope, so I don't have to drill holes into the trailer. Any suggestions?
Lilo
|
Member:
Alden
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 4:49 pm:
It comes with the eye bolt, shackle and tie ring. The shackle has a cross bolt that unscrews easily and fits over tie points on my Exiss trailer fine. I have three and move them to different places all the time.
Good day,
Alden
|
Member:
Skye
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 5:56 pm:
Can anyone with experience with the BLocker tie ring please suggest the best kind of rope to use? I will be teaching my coming-two-year-old with this device but am unsure of the length, diameter, and best material (cotton?) to use. I'll be starting in his stall.
Many thanks!
|
Member:
Christos
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 6:11 pm:
Thanks for the link, Alden,
I can't wait for a puller to try this idea on! I think a friend owns a mare that pulls like crazy...
|
Member:
Alden
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 6:49 pm:
Your welcome,
I've used several different rope types and they all work, although differently. Basically the soft yachting rope like Clinton uses will slip more easily than a hard double twist. Harder ropes slip with more resistance than softer ropes, diameter also effects resistance.
Look at Clinton’s website and the picture there shows the rope looped twice around the center bar; that increases the resistance. It takes a little experimentation with any particular rope, but the great thing is depending on how you rig the ring the resistance can be varied.
I would suspect a cotton rope will slip pretty easily, depending on diameter and whether it has a core or not.
Good day,
Alden
|
Member:
Goolsby
|
Posted on Thursday, Feb 26, 2004 - 7:07 pm:
thank you Christos
I have just found where this thread had moved. I do use the quick release knot when I tie. I think I was just confused by bobs post about tying. He said above the head. I always tie at head level. I have know of horse tied above their head who have fallen and been unable to regain foot. On situation eneded in death. Thanks for all the pointers.
Colleen
|
Member:
Lilo
|
Posted on Friday, Feb 27, 2004 - 6:39 pm:
Alden,
Thanks for your reply to my message. I had been wondering about that, and could not find a good photo on the website. I think I really need two of those.
Lilo
|
Member:
Christos
|
Posted on Friday, Feb 27, 2004 - 8:25 pm:
I want to point out again that all people working with ropes and knots should have a look in the climbing world. Lots of useful information there.
The blocker ring is, for instance, a climber's figure 8 belaying device, only with a tongue added.
And the knot displayed is a munter hitch, a climber's belaying knot, only modified to accomodate the tongue.
One can easily achieve the same results with a plain ring and a munter hitch.
|
Member:
Jjet
|
Posted on Saturday, Feb 28, 2004 - 11:47 am:
Christos, climbing ropes/devices really are useful. I was introduced to them a while back through their use in mule packing through the back country. The rope was far superior to traditional cotton and nylon that I had been used to using. So easy to handle, too.
|
Member:
Skye
|
Posted on Sunday, May 2, 2004 - 4:09 pm:
The Blocker Tie Ring everyone likes--well, it seems to work in the stall right now with my antsy two-year-old. I have two questions: (1) I use a thick, twisted-cotton lead line attached to his halter. He knows he can pull it through with a little effort, and that's fine. The problem is, he plays with the rope and even the chain so much, wanting to chew on it. In fact, when he gets the thick end in his mouth, he seems to be almost tranquilized.
Will his constant chewing and playing with the line make him even "mouthier" than he is now--which is pretty mouthy?
(2) the barn owner has tied him on the Blocker with a very long chain, not too heavy and consisting of links maybe one-half or one inch long. It, of course, doesn't really pull through to release much pressure. She's had no problems, mainly because he plays with the chain, too!
Would anyone offer any insight or advice on using the cotton lead vs. the chain and on the mouthy issue?
Also, should I just take a deep breath (as I said, he's 2) and try him soon on the non-Blocker cross ties in the barn? And what's the best way to tie him safely for the first time on the cross ties? Someone suggested twine loops on the halter to attach the cross ties to.
Many thanks
|
Member:
Miamoo
|
Posted on Monday, May 3, 2004 - 11:17 am:
There are crossties that snap free when pressure is applied. (Of course I can't think of the name of them now) The ends are round plastic with metal "teeth" that attach to the halter. You push them open and closed with your thumb to attach. If the horse pulls back it will release on its own.
I started my 2 year old with one side a regular solid crosstie and the other with this release tie. I had no problems. She pulled back once and the release let go but as I still had the regular tie I did not lose her.
From reading the posts here, when I do it again, I will try the Blocker on one side and the release cross tie on the other. In an emergancy, one side would let go and the other would have the safe Blocker system on it.
|
Member:
Alden
|
Posted on Monday, May 3, 2004 - 6:50 pm:
Ellie,
I prefer a harder twisted rope for my lead ropes, I like the way they handle and it works in the blocker ring much better. With a smaller harder rope you can add wraps to the blocker that increases resistance. Ideally you can find the right amount of resistance that allows the rope to slip if the horse were to panic but stops them from gaining freedom by pulling the rope out. Using a chain with the blocker total defeats the purpose of the ring, you might as well tie him hard.
Personally I don’t use cross-ties with any of my horses, especially not on a two year old with ants in the pants. My three year old has become less mouthy just lately; I didn’t worry him much about it except when I was the object of his desire. My ropes show the wear, but he has gotten better on his own once his teeth settled down.
Good day,
Alden
|
Member:
Mrose
|
Posted on Monday, May 3, 2004 - 11:16 pm:
I use crossties on young horses, but they aren't really tied. I use two lead ropes and run them through the eyebolts that hold the cross ties. I don't actually tie them. I hold onto one of the leads while I groom to maintain control and keep the horse from "leaving" or flipping around. This gets them used to being in the grooming area and is safe. I'm going to check out the blocker now though. In the past I've gone from the two leads to a quick release on each end of the cross tie. btw-I NEVER leave a horse alone in a cross tie - even an older horse.
|
Member:
Alden
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 4, 2004 - 11:16 am:
Another good way to teach a horse to tie quietly is to tie overhead with lots of room for them to move around in a full circle. I prefer a rope halter as they will also teach themselves to follow the pressure and disengage their hind end (a secondary benefit).
I have a climbing rope tied between two telephone poles with lines and clips that DrOp down from the climbing rope that I tie the horses to. If you have a wide enough barn isles a rafter will work as well. Tied overhead like this the horse can’t pull very hard, about the worst they can do is sit down, they can pull a lot harder when tied level like on a hitching post.
Just tie them to the overhead line and let them work it out. With the young horses I stay close by encase of emergency but mostly so I can go get them as soon as the stand quietly. In the beginning the key is to reward them when the quiet down, later I work the older horses up to standing for hours at a time. When we camp I tie to a highline like this and I want the horses to stand quiet all night; so I can get my beauty sleep.
Beware that most horses quiet down pretty quickly, but some like my 3 yro get flat pissed off before they figure out the rope always wins. But at least he didn’t get mad at me, I was his savior because I would come and release him; which is what he is looking for.
Good day,
Alden
|
|
|
