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Discussion on Head Tossing/Nipping in 2.5 Yr Old

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Terri Haynie
Member
Username: Terrilyn

Post Number: 229
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Friday, Oct 22, 2004 - 12:18 pm:   Edit PostPrint Post

We are starting a 2.5 year-old QH on basic ground work. We are beginning with about 20 minutes a day of what I call "patience" work because he has a pretty difficult time paying attention...all we're doing right now is asking for walk, whoa, back, over, stand, and picking feet. Not much at all has been done with him prior to our purchasing him....he's a PMU baby and has spent a lot of time either being spoiled rotten or ignored...and when we work together he shows his impatience and lack of attention by throwing his head all over the place and trying to nip. Here's my question (before I get knocked out by his head and end up in the hospital!): I want to conduct these starter sessions using a chain over the nose -- is this too much? I don't plan to over-use the chain or to jerk on it, but I'm thinking that with as much tossing as he's doing, he'll pull hard enough to realize that tossing/pulling equals ouch, and the discomfort that results will come from his own movement. And what is the best method for discouraging the nipping without making him headshy? I hate to pop him in the face...seems counter-productive. Thanks! As always.
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Debbie E
Member
Username: Deggert

Post Number: 118
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Friday, Oct 22, 2004 - 5:45 pm:   Edit PostPrint Post

Terri
when my 3 yr old colt did this when he was younger it seemed the best thing for him was to have him "accidently" run into the butt end of dressage whip or something that is hard but not stinging. I did not want to hit his face or head. If I "tried" to make him stop it became a game. He also liked to swing his head around which can be dangerous. I carried the whip at my hip and if his head swung over or he tried to get a nip in, I would bump him hard in the chest, also I was reinforcing my space. I never looked at him when this happened just kept going along like nothing happened, praising when he just walked nicely. Each horse is different though, some are tougher than others, the sensitive ones are easily persuaded and do not take to overkill on the discipline. Good luck with him,
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Christos Axis
Member
Username: Christos

Post Number: 504
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Saturday, Oct 23, 2004 - 8:11 am:   Edit PostPrint Post

Hi, Terrie,
I believe the best way to stop head butting and nipping is to hit him with your elbow while he is swinging towards you.
Anticipate the movement, watching out of the corner of your eye. When he swings his head your way, lift your elbow fast, as if to straighten your hair or rub your neck. Make it look accidental by not looking at him.
After two-three attempts, he'll think you're very clumsy and full of elbows, and he'll knock it off.
For the head tossing the chain is a good thing to try, but keep in mind that you should not put steady pressure on it. Just a little sharp tug should get his attention back to you.

Christos
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Robert N. Oglesby DVM
Moderator
Username: Dro

Post Number: 11384
Registered: 1-1997
Posted on Saturday, Oct 23, 2004 - 9:49 am:   Edit PostPrint Post

Terri we have suggestions for dealing with the nipping Training Horses » Behavioral Problems » Aggression in Horses. And as Christox suggests, as long as you realize the chain is a reward device for good behavior, no pressure applied as the horse's behavior improves, you will find it is a useful tool to shape behavior. There is more about this in the article.
DrO
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Kim Glaza
Member
Username: Kckohles

Post Number: 22
Registered: 7-2000
Posted on Sunday, Oct 24, 2004 - 11:59 am:   Edit PostPrint Post

Terri,
If you haven't already had a dentist I would get one on his teeth pronto. The pressure on his head from the halter could be aggravating already sore teeth. I know he seems young but I had a 3 yr old mare in training, and I was the fifth trainer to get her because all the others told the owner that the horse was crazy, but her back teeth were digging into her upper jaw really badly. Once we got the teeth done, and this was done by a dentist with his eyes and hands directly on the teeth, she went right on with very little trouble. If it had only been a float by the vet that back molar would not have been reached because with her mouth fully open with the speculum it still took quite a bit of work to reach the top of that tooth.
I think the advice given with the exception of the chain is really good. I would avoid the chain, they are really painful devices. Letting him run into you like the others said is a better idea. The elbow/whip needs to be right at the moment he is trying to reach to you anything after and he will make it into a game like Debbie said and get really quick at biting and getting away.
But with any "behavior" problem I always look to the physical first.

KIM
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