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Discussion on 1999 Tips | |
Author | Message |
Posted on Monday, Apr 12, 1999 - 11:03 am: Whenever training a horse to do something,leave it until the very end of your session.Ask for one or two steps or whatever the horse is willing to do, and then stop and put your horse away.Probably the biggest reward for horse is to stop being ridden or trained.I have used this method many times and the speed at which the horse learns is amazing. |
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Posted on Monday, Apr 12, 1999 - 11:17 am: I am using clicker training for my 3 y o. and no - it doesn't make her mouthy. In fact less so. She knows she only gets treats after she's been clicked and she waits accordingly. She wasn't happy in the round pen getting used to the saddle and bit. In fact the second time I tried to put her saddle on she wouldn't keep still and it fell off [ungirthed] which scared her even more. So we have taken it step by step by clicker training. Still some way to go but the prospect of being rewarded overcomes her reluctance. I'm also using it for getting her to pick up my whip if I DrOp it. I'm now at an age when I can't get on and off very easily and I used to DrOp my whip frequently. She now picks it up and holds it until I get it out of her mouth. I've still to train to her bringing her head round with it yet! I like this positive reinforcement method rather than telling them off when they do something wrong. |
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Posted on Tuesday, Apr 13, 1999 - 1:20 am: When I lunge my mare and I ask for a lengthened trot stride if she brakes into a canter, I take her into a smaller circle. When she comes down to a trot I ask her to canter. After two or three times around I ask her to trot.When she does bless her heart I give the line back. So in short terms if you brake gate I don't make it as easy to stay there and I will ask you to come back and join me when we are both ready. This works wonders on my Arabian mare sometimes we just have to much energy to listen and it gets a little of the edge off so she can concentrate on the job at hand. Give many rewards for a job well done,and hug your horse today. |
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Posted on Monday, Apr 19, 1999 - 7:50 pm: Jumping tips:1.- start out at a sitting trot and work your way up to a canter. 2.- before going to the jump, close your eyes and imajine doing it perfectly and every step the way it should be. 3.- be as relaxed as possible so your horse can feel the same. 4.- dont ever look strait at the jump. If you stare the horse can sense your nervise. Look out ahead of the jump instead. 5.- dont get in 2-point by yourself. Get a lift from your horse. Kinda like posting a trot. |
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Posted on Monday, Apr 19, 1999 - 7:58 pm: For a horse that bolts or is aggressive when fed.1- try putting a rock in the grain bucket so the horse has to move around it to get food. 2- feed he\she last when feeding more than one horse. 3- take a crop in the horses stall and stand with the grain until they calm down. Then give them grain and tell them that is what your supposed to do. 4- try not to feed horses out in the feld. This could cause choke or bloting, because the horse might feel they have to eat VERY fast before they are run away by another horse trying to get their food. |
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Posted on Monday, Apr 19, 1999 - 7:15 pm: If your horse refuses to lift his hoof when you want to inspect it, pinch or dig your fingernails into his chestnut on that leg. He will lift it. |
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Posted on Sunday, May 2, 1999 - 9:20 pm: To help a horse pick up the correct lead on the lunge (when they are having a great deal of difficulty), lunge them in an enclosed space (like a ring or arena) and as they are trotting on the lunge ask for the canter as they are approaching the wall (or fence). As he/she turns away from the barrier he/she will likely pick up the correct lead. |
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Posted on Monday, May 3, 1999 - 1:01 pm: Safety training at feeding time - Pasture:For those that keep there own horses at home or a rented pasture the ruckus at feeding time can be dangerous, unless you take the time to train your horses. -Start by placeing grain bowls in a large semi circle around the entrance into the field. Have in your mind who will eat where ( it is much easier to feed in reverse pecking order lowest to highest). -Carry with you a small whip to "touch" (not hit) any horse that enters your personal space without persmission. -Upon entering the field declair loudly "Get in your spots!" or something of the kind. At first slowly work through feeding untill you allow only the intended horse to eat at his designated bowl. This should be the same spot every time. -Only allow the horse to begin eating when his ears are forward with a nice look on their face. At first it is your typical feeding frenzy, but with patientience and consistancy they will soon learn that; A. They get fed in only one particular spot, B. They better have a good attitute if they want to eat. C. Stay out of a humans personal space untill they are invited in. I keep anywhere from 5 to 9 horses in our pasture and my eight year old nephew can feed them their daily grain in complete safety (he still has to wear his helmet though). When this is consistantly reinforced you make your horses much safer to be around and more respectfull, which will filter over into other areas of their performance. |
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Posted on Tuesday, May 4, 1999 - 11:16 am: Many English riders complain that they have trouble properly sitting a trot and canter because they slide around in the saddle. Then they resort to full seat britches, which are expensive, may require special care and feel (to me) like you are wearing a diaper ...Instead, keep a bar of saddle soap in your tack trunk. Before you ride, take it and rub it on the leather of your saddle. It will provide some tackiness without binding your seat to the saddle. It doesn't hurt your saddle at all and washes easily out of your britches. |
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Posted on Thursday, May 13, 1999 - 11:41 pm: My best tip is to treat yourself to a private lesson once a week, a month, a year—whatever your budget allows. Pay someone to come to you, go to their facility or send in a video to a qualified instructor or trainer. Know ahead of time exactly what you want to work on. A pair of expert eyes will help correct problems or potential bad habits in you or your horse that you may never have been aware of. Most instructors will give you a lesson plan with several different items to work on if you ask. Have a notebook with you to write details, if needed to refer to later. I’ve also found the best instructors have themselves periodically evaluated. Ask around-both you and your horse will benefit |
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Posted on Friday, May 14, 1999 - 10:57 pm: A horse can tell you alot of things,if you watch,and expect it to be sensible and intelligent.Pay attention to all the little signs-the way it moves its body,the ears,the eyes,the little whinnies-thats its way of talking.There is the neigh of terror,the scream of rage,the whinny of nervous impatience,the nicker of longing or hunger or friendliness or delight or recognition.She'll talk to you,and its for you to understand her. You'll learn her language,and she'll learn yours--never forget that they can understand everything you say to them. |
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Posted on Friday, May 14, 1999 - 11:17 pm: When training your horse for something always stop on a positive ending.No matter how many times he gets it wrong as soon as its done right end the lesson.the reward for him is ending on a positive not a negative. |
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Posted on Saturday, May 15, 1999 - 5:57 pm: DOES YOUR HORSE RUSH AT THE CANTER AND OVER FENCES?My 4 year old mare used to rush over fences and at the canter terribly. I found that when a horse rushes it is usually due to lack of balance...that is what people usually told me but they never told me how to fix it. I have met many people with this problem so I would like to give back to the equine world with my suggestion. First thing is to make sure your horse understands the half halt which is a quick check with the reins used to slow down and control your horse. Practice it at the walk to halt, trot to walk, trot to halt, canter to walk, trot, halt, etc. This will be the first step in a slow paced horse. Next don't only ride in the ring if possible. Horses are intelligent animals (we think) and get bored just as humans do. Try to ride in the fields or just a little grassy area will due. To get a horse more balanced trot uphill. This is a great exercise for the rider and the horse to gain balance. If your horse has a really fast canter and you have tried all these steps canter down hill. Now I don't mean go find the biggest hill and gallop down it...lol :)! That won't help, start with small hills and get the slowest canter possible with your horse, then canter down hill keeping their head up...if they put their head down they will just barrel down the hill making things worse. Keep their head up and sit back. The biggest problem is to keep them going. I have tried all this myself and my horse has gone from galloping over fences to beautifully jumping courses at a PACE. It is so nice to be able to pleasurably ride my horse and not have to think of it as a day of work. Although riding is never work for me. Good luck to all working with their equine pals and keep me posted on any progress anyone has with this method. I am curious to see if it works as well on other horses as it did with mine. |
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Posted on Saturday, May 15, 1999 - 7:15 pm: HORSE RUSHING FENCES?First you need to make sure there is no physical pain. Check to see that all tack is properly fitted and in good repair. I am sure there are many of us who's tack isn't causing our horses any pain but our horses are being difficult to work with. My horse used to rush her fences, this made it difficult since we were going to show as hunters who look for a nice collected pace. The first thing to change is your fence height, start with a small cross rail with a ground line and just trot over it. Once you can give your horse some slack on the reins going over the cross rail at a trot without a rushing change in pace then you can try it at the canter with the same objective. If you are doing course work set up a line of again small fences and in between the fence halt your horse. Transitions are good to get your horse balanced too. If your horse still is rushing the fences when you halt back up. What happens in this exercise is that the horse starts to expect the halt and listens more acutely to your signals. As your horse gains balance and confidence you can higher your fences, but until then keep them low. |
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Posted on Saturday, May 15, 1999 - 7:21 pm: I always hate to see a horse refuse a fence at a show and as a rider I hate it when it happens. Horses refuse fences for many reasons but usually it is because a fence is new or something scary or maybe the lighting just isn't right. A good exercise to try at home that will prepare you for your shining moment would be to try this. Before you ride set up your fences but put crazy "junk" around your fences. I usually try draping my jumps with blankets and coolers. Sometimes I stack buckets under my jumps. Lug a bale of hay into your arena and just jump that. There are many ways to stand a bale of hay if you stand it on its end you will find out how honest your horse really is, it will be hard to jump something so narrow without standards. Another thing to try is to put old barrels under the jumps. The point is that your horse will learn that there will be some "scary" fences in his life but if you practice what to do with a scary fence at home it won't be so shocking at a show. Your horse should learn to trust you and trust that what you do won't hurt him and in return he will jump what you ask of him. This exercise has helped me greatly I now know how to deal with a refusal or how to give my horse the extra nudge she needs for a "scary" fence. |
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Posted on Wednesday, Jun 2, 1999 - 8:30 pm: step1: Buy a large screen Tv and VCR,Step 2: Put it in the barn. Step 3: Play the training tape during mealtimes and during the sleepy afternoon time. this way your horse can learn what new lesson you have for him/her without all the trouble of having to figure out your interpretation of how to do it. :} Teresa |
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Posted on Thursday, Jun 3, 1999 - 1:50 pm: When I first got my mare, she was pretty messy in her stall (partly because of the surprise baby tromping through everything).After baby was weaned, we trained my mare to go pretty much in one area of the stall by leaving a couple of balls of manure in that area when we picked the stall. After a few weeks, she tended to go there most of the time ... unless it had been a while since the last "poop pick." Twelve years and 3 barns later, I was recently told how "neat" my mare is in the stall. Probably not your traditional training topic, but one that affects us every day, :O) |
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Posted on Thursday, Jun 17, 1999 - 7:53 pm: I have been training my first horse and was having some difficulty until I realized what the key was to my problems. My horse didn't understand the half halt. Once my horse realized that when my body movement stopped and I GENTLY pulled back and released that it meant to slow down and collect. This movement can be used at all the gaits in all disciplines of riding. I am a hunter rider and it helped collect my rushing mare without hanging in her mouth. Good luck to all with their equine pals. :) |
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Posted on Thursday, Jun 17, 1999 - 9:11 pm: The day before a horse show do not put your horse to work. Instead, have a nice casual ride. If possible go for a hack and have a lot of fun. This way both you and the horse end up less stressed at the show. Let's face it, if you haven't fixed the problem the day before the show then it's too late for that one. Also what happens at the show will depend on lots of factors. BUT if you can both go mentally relaxed and refreshed you will be ahead by a mile.TeresaA |
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Posted on Monday, Jun 28, 1999 - 2:32 pm: We all know those hot, hot, hot and humid lovely show days where we are to present our horses at their peak preformance. What? That's what I say, it is too hot to be showing. To keep my horse ready for the heat I prepare myself and my horse. A week before the show I start with electrolytes if your horse doesn't already get them daily. This way salt that is lost while sweating is replaced. Make sure your horse is capable of being ridden in the classes and for the amount of time you are asking. Keep plenty of fresh cold water on hand. During the summer it gets pretty hot so when I don't have a class I try and find a shady spot and I take my saddle off so my horse will have a chance to cool down before my next class. I pack a cooler with just ice and rags. When my horse or I get hot we take a rag from the bucket and wipe down. Keep baby wipes in your cooler to freshen up during a break. Hope these tips make for happy showing. I know they certainly help me stay cool. |
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Posted on Sunday, Jul 4, 1999 - 12:15 pm: Libby,One day, when you have more experience, you will learn that there are dozens of ways to skin the cat and that blanket criticism, like prejudice, tends to stem from a lack of knowledge and self worth. The term "outdated" is an interesting choice of words since I would remind you that many of the most successful trainers today are emulating a trainer named Xenophon who wrote a treatise on the training of horses over 2000 years ago. If you would like to be helpful and talk about specific ideas and points I welcome your criticism and input. The point here is not that anyone has the answer but that we can openly discuss ideas. You seem to have forgot the first lesson of training horses: if he does not understand what you are saying, he cannot learn the lesson. DrO |
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 7, 1999 - 2:35 pm: Horses are very visual and notice very small details. Surprisingly, they can get a lot of information from our faces, including our eyes. So, when working with your horse on the ground, be sure to leave the dark sunglasses off. You want your horse to read you as accurately as possible to minimize any confusion or errors. |
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Posted on Thursday, Jul 8, 1999 - 7:35 am: Hehe Very true, it is just a pity we cant make out ears move enough, it would make training easier :-) |
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Posted on Thursday, Jul 8, 1999 - 12:19 pm: Darren,Try baring your teeth - that's got to be as good as pinning one's ears back! GRIN. |
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 28, 1999 - 10:16 am: Here's is my approach to teaching my horse something new:1. do not keep drilling it over and over. Work on it only 1-3 times a week and only for a few minutes at a time. Your horse will pick it up faster and is less likely to resist. 2. only work on the new concept when things are going well, not when your both struggling. 3. do not expect perfection the first, second or even the tenth time. Reward small steps and assume that your horse is trying his/her best to figure it out. 4. If you run into problems seek out expert advice from a qualified professional or, lacking that, someone who's opinion and horsepersonship you respect. Two good eyes from the ground are worth the cost of a lesson or clinic. 5. If it's not going well analyze, analyze, analyze! formulate a theory and then try it out. For example, my horse was DrOpping his shoulder at the canter in corners. Through trial and error I learned it was because I was not riding him into the corners but allowing him to fall through them. 6. If it's not going right it is almost never the horses fault. Even if they are evading it is because you are not correcting the evasion or asking for it correctly. I do see horses that will evade (typically lesson horses) but if the psychology of evading is tackled then you can return to the original intent with more success. TeresaA |
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Posted on Monday, Aug 2, 1999 - 12:08 pm: Every now and then have someone videotape your ride. Watching it will give you tons of information about your riding and the horses way of going. It's extremely helpful if you are having a problem. Always, if possible, videotape a clinic. I find I get so much info in a clinic it's helpful to be able to review it again after.TeresaA |
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Posted on Thursday, Aug 12, 1999 - 11:55 am: TROT/HALT/TROT TRANSITIONS TO TEACH HALF HALTS:If you practice full down transitions (and up transitions), it helps teach the horse the half halt. Go from trot to halt to trot several times, and then... just when you feel the horse start to back off and get ready to halt, tell him, "oh - I changed my mind - go..." with your seat and leg. It will seem like magic. |
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Posted on Thursday, Aug 12, 1999 - 3:19 pm: Nothing is better for developing your legs and seat muscles than regular work bareback...keeping your legs in proper position, no matter what your discipline; really helps you "feel" the horse under you better, as well. Found it to be of great benefit as I don't get to ride as often as I used to and it is difficult to maintain leg strength and sensitivity to the horse's body without taking away all barriers and riding in correct position at all gaits...yep, all of them. Don't attempt hand gallops bareback unless you've worked up to them, though. Very bad for your bones to come sliding (or flying) off because you lost your seat. Make bareback exercises a regular part of your routine and you will notice not only a better, more secure seat; but your communication in the saddle will improve as well.Besides....kind of reminds me of the old days as a kid when I'd throw a halter on, skinny up the side to mount up in a bathing suit and go for a dip in the lake Linda M. |
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Posted on Tuesday, Aug 17, 1999 - 10:07 am: Teaching tricks has been successfully used with other animals for some time, and many people don't consider it to be a "serious" training method. Some have a negative or skeptical view of this wonderful training tool, perhaps because of the name, the treating, or the non-aggressive approach.If done properly, teaching a horse tricks will enhance his responsiveness in all other areas of training, by stimulating his mind, and developing a bond between horse and owner, enabling them to communicate on a higher level in a partnership. Tricks make a horse brighter, more interesting and shine with intellectual achievement, all accomplished through kindness, patience and reward. Could even increase the horse's value by endearing him to others! I have fifty--yes, that's right!--tricks that I have taught my horses to do. He never does them "off cue", but of course, he had excellent ground work and manners in place first. And no, rearing was one of the last tricks he learned, not first! No tacking up, special places or equipment needed at first, either. Most any horse can learn how to do tricks on cue! |
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 18, 1999 - 2:11 pm: Plan your training and approach it thoughtfully.There are 4 ways you can influence a horse or any other creature, including human. You can reward the horse for correct behavior (often labeled R+ - a reward is applied). Examples of rewards are food treats, being allowed to stretch long and walk, a pat on the neck, etc. You can remove a reward for incorrect behavior (often labeled R- - a valued item is removed). Examples are a little more challenging, but the obvious one to all parents is the removal of a toy. In horse terms, an example may be asking a horse to move forward at a good pace when it takes advantage of a down transition and pulls against you. People can unknowingly do R- and cause a response they did not desire. A classic example is going out for your horse when he is happily munching grass with his buddies - he walks up to you, you halter him and take him away from his friends into work. After a while, if you only take him into work and don't mix it up with other favored items (bringing in to dinner, grooming, hand grazing, giving a carrot, having a quiet, fun trail ride, etc.), he will decide being caught is not for him and stop offering to come to you ... You can add a punishment for incorrect behavior (often labeled P+ - applying something viewed as negative). The obvious horse example is a tap with a whip. Others could be a verbal correction, boot with the heel, etc. This is were most of us get caught in our "training" and where it is statistically least successful at extinguishing a behavior. Finally, you can remove a punishment when you get the desired response (often labeled P- as the punishment goes away). An example of this is the idea of "giving to pressure" - a horse feels some pressure on the bit in his mouth and when he lightens up he is rewarded with comfort. Another is horse is subjected to a series of half-halts and the rider has a "go with seat" when he likes the response. The challenge in any of these approaches is to actually mark the behavior which is causing your choice of reward/punishment. A verbal good girl/boy can mark the behavior and bridge to the reward. An uh-uh or no can bridge to the punishment. No bridge to reward or punishment means you have to catch the behavior as it occurs and choose your action very quickly. This information is based on the operant conditioning model of animal training and is the basis for training dolphins, orcas, etc. at marine shows. It has been adopted by many dog trainers (aka clicker training as the click of a hand held clicker marks the "good/desired" behavior and the treat follows). Since we horse people want to influence our steeds with consistency and understanding, it helps to categorize our alternatives and choose appropriately. If you are interested in finding out more on the "clicker training" movement for horses, check Alexandra Kurland's web site: https://www.crisny.org//users/kurlanda She was recently written up in Equus, which suggests clicker training is starting to reach the mainstream. Cheers. |
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Posted on Thursday, Aug 26, 1999 - 5:26 pm: If you do something routinely inresponse to a horse's actions, they will come to expect you to do it every time. Mixing up your work is a good way to keep a horse on its toes and minimize anticipation. You can use this to your advantage, too. You can do something routinely to cue that "we are done working." For example, I reach down and let out the girth a couple of notches when we are on our last cooling out walk. This lets the horse know we are really done ... but up until then our walk breaks are merely breaks and she shouldn't get fussed when they end and we go back to work. This lets us take breaks in our sessions without losing focus. Cheers. |
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Posted on Sunday, Aug 29, 1999 - 10:57 pm: When some people brought their mare for breeding they kept remarking on HOW WILD her month old foal was . They had haltered him and tied him in a stall ; he'd gotten tangled up , skinned his nose , and after that he was scared to death of people.While he was here each day we brought the mares and foals to the barn for oats and began to gain his trust . After several days I would touch him as I brushed his dam . Each day lead to more contact with him . After his 3rd week I put a halter on him , left it a few minutes & took it off . I would touch him all over , under his tummy , on his legs , ears , etc. During the 4th week I would put the halter on for longer periods of time and finally I asked him to lead a few steps . We can go up to him anywhere out in the pasture , handle all his feet , and he leads quite well . When his owners came to get their other mare they could not believe how gentle he was . We still have this colt and his dam here as the colt has sold & his new owners wanted him close enough to work with . So his dam will go home after he is weaned . His owner just called and said they needed to do something with the other foal they have ; tie her up , etc. I stressed to them how this colt was trained to trust and once we have a colt's trust then they can learn . Go slow , use their dam and other gentler foals to show that you aren't harmful . They watch everything and it is suprising how gentle they become with so little effort ; just patience and consistency . |
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Posted on Monday, Oct 4, 1999 - 11:52 am: Boots too tight? Hard to pull on, take off?Try dusting baby powder or corn starch on your feet, legs and in your boots to help slide them on. Spritz some Show Sheen on your legs, feet, allow to try and slide them on. (Don't do this after powdering or you will have a real mess.) Lay down with your feet legs higher than your head/chest for about ten minutes and practice riding in your head and remember to breathe deeply - helps with show jitters and relaxation, too. If desperate, first slide on a plastic grocery back with a small hole near the big toe. Then slide on your boots. Afterward, pull the bag out through the top. If it doesn't come out, just tuck in the edges and figure your calf is getting a much needed sweat, GRIN. Cheers. |
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Posted on Wednesday, Nov 3, 1999 - 10:54 pm: I work with wild mustangs and have learned a trick to teach them to pick up their hind feet that will keep you and them safe (most importantly - you). Start by working with your horse in an enclosed area. Have them on the halter with a lead so you can control them. Then take another rope (cotton lunge line is perfect) and slowly let them get used to the feeling of it all over their body. Then once they've accepted the rope, let it slide down their legs. They will get upset, kick at the rope and try to run away, but thats okay. Let them circle around you. Keep tossing the rope GENTLY towards their legs until they no longer care about it around their feet. Then when the rope is laying around one of the back feet, (DO NOT BEND OVER TO PICK IT UP! THIS COULD GET YOU KILLED) reach out with your foot and pull the end of the rope toward you so you can pick it up at a safe distance. Now you have both ends of the rope in one hand with the middle around their pastern, your other hand is holding the lead rope. Slowly pick up the lunge line with the hind foot. Its okay if the horse kicks. Just stand there and let him figure out that he can't get away from the pressure its important to not let go of his foot as he is kicking and trying to get away or you will reinforce the kicking. As soon as he stops kicking, put his foot down and reward him. Keep doing this. Withing a few minutes, the horse won't kick if you pick up his foot with the rope. Once he relaxes, put the foot down. Once he is totally comfortable with picking up his foot with the rope, start rubbing his hind quarter and slowly move down his leg. Pretty soon, you can hold the foot with your hand. If you go slow, I guarantee you will have your horse safely and quietly picking up his hind feet in one or two sessions. I have not had this method fail me yet. If you have any questions, feel free to email me for more details. Its funny that my mustangs are the ones that I can pick up any one of their feet without a halter or lead and my domestics have to be held to have their feet done! |
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Posted on Monday, Nov 15, 1999 - 12:21 pm: Every time you go out to ride have a plan in mind of what you want to accomplish. It can be as simple as "work quietly past a spooky part of the ring" to working on a dressage level test. By having a plan you can work out how you're going to accomplish that task and much of the mental work is done before you mount. I even plan my "fun" rides by figuring out what my horse and I both enjoy and that I will lay off the "work" that day.By doing this I almost always feel that I've accomplished something, no matter how small. Just keep in mind that you have to be ready to change your plan if your horse has other ideas. For example, trying a dressage test could change to working quietly by a spooky part of the arena on a particular day. TeresaA |
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Posted on Monday, Nov 15, 1999 - 4:02 pm: Now that the weather is colder, plan your warm ups and cool downs to take more time.As the temperature DrOps, allow more time for walk trot work, before adding canter, flexion, collection and lateral work. Be sure to work on larger circles and long sides. Post at the trot. All this gives your horse's body time to function properly in the cold weather. It also gives YOUR body time to get the blood pumping before doing anything too strenuous. In the same token, allow an equal amount of cool down for both of you. And if either of you are sweaty, add a layer for warmth and drying. Some horses come out in the cold weather really fired up and invigorated, but many have a twinge or two of stiffness that benefits from a careful, thoughtful warmup. Cheers. |
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Posted on Tuesday, Dec 21, 1999 - 9:49 am: At least a few times a month do your whole ride on the quarter lines. Quarter lines are half-way between the "rail" and the middle line of the arena. This will help you and your horse to be truly balanced. It's very easy to become dependent on the walls/rails to keep your horse straight and turn. You'd be surprised how much your horse will "drift" back to rail. You can do all of the figures on these quarter-lines (serpentines, circles, bending lines etc.). However, be careful if your arena is narrow as close turns can be hard on a horse's joints.TeresaA |
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