Tying Your Horse and Nightlines, excerpts from Have Saddle-Will Travel, Low Impact Horsecamping Learned in the School of Hard Knocks

by Don West

PICKETS, BELLS, AND HOBBLES
I sat quietly astride my horse, on the top of a small grassy knoll, looking out over the mountains and watching the sun drop down and disappear behind the horizon. The soft light of alpen glow momentarily lingered on the highest peaks. Witnessing the turning of the aspen leaves, shimmering in the glory of their golden and red grand finale, and breathing in the smell of autumn in the air sent my mind off on a reminiscent journey, back to another September long ago. It had been almost 25-years since I had made my first solo horse camping trip. Still, I remembered it clearly, as though it was just the other day.

In preparation, I had devoured the few horse packing books I could get my hands on. I'd asked questions of those I thought might know. But mostly, I was relying on my own years of experience with both horses and camping, learned in the school of hard knocks (now more fashionably referred to by educators as "experiential learning"). Finally, the time had come. With my horse Cindy and my dog Nicky, I set off into the mountains of Colorado to test my skills...and my sense of humor.

I rode for a long time that first day. The air was crisp and cool. The sun shone brightly in an azure blue sky, with only an occasional cloud drifting overhead. I covered eight or nine miles, mostly up, from the trail head to a grassy clearing in a dark timber lined mountain valley. I sat alone by my little campfire that evening, enjoying my solitude and my last cup of coffee. I watched in awe, as the sky, as though drained of color, faded quickly from gray to black. Crystal clear stars popped out of nowhere and twinkled in numbers beyond belief. The scene freed me from my Earth bound perspective, giving me a sense of my own insignificance in this vast universe. I indulged myself in the feeling of satisfaction I experienced, having completed my first day on the trail with no major problems or mishaps. This was going to be easy!

At about two that morning, my dog, Nicky, started barking furiously. I stuck my head out of the tent just in time to see him chasing a large black bear back into the timber. I supposed the bear had come around to check out the goodies in my camp larder! Or, maybe he was just lonely, and wanted some company. But now, he was gone...and so was my horse.

Cindy, my trusty sorrel Quarter-Arab mare, had been staked out in the clearing near my tent, where I could keep an eye on her. For this first trip, I had bought a brand new metal picket pin, one that looked like a giant corkscrew, and a leather, one-leg hobble. I had joined them together with 30 feet of cotton rope. I pulled on my jeans and went to search for my horse. Where moments before she had been securely anchored, I found a broken hobble, a tangled rope, and the picket pin. It had been jerked out of the ground so forcefully that it (now) looked like a long spear. But, no Cindy. She was long gone. Feeling suddenly alone and humbled, I crawled back into the security of my tent and waited for the morning. As they say "tomorrow is another day."

With first light, I was able to pick up her tracks. They were easy enough to read on this little used trail. I packed a water bottle, some food, and my jean jacket, and started tracking her. She had headed back down the trail the way we had come up the day before. After a few miles of walking, my feet started to get hot, sweaty and really sore. I could feel blisters developing inside my fancy pointy toed, high heeled cowboy boots. My head was sweating under my broad brimmed, black cowboy hat. Right then, I would have killed for a pair of sneakers and a baseball cap. Truth is, I was developing a monster headache, too.

About a mile or so further back down the trail, there was a drift fence where I had come through a closed gate. I figured I'd find her there, but, as I approached, I was disappointed...no horse. Instead, her tracks turned and went up along the fence line a-ways, then disappeared. I doubled back to the trail, and went through the gate. Sure enough, there were her tracks again. She must have jumped the fence some place. I looked for signs of blood, but, to my relief, I couldn't find any. I only hoped she hadn't hurt herself crossing the barbed wire.

Finally, the trail broke out of the timber. From this high vantage point I could see my truck and trailer parked next to a run-down cow camp, in the open valley bottom a mile or so below. Next to the trailer, I made out a brown spot. It moved. Sure enough, it was my old mare Cindy, contentedly munching grass and waiting for me to take her home. After nursing my crippled feet in the cool stream, I tied my boots together, slung them over Cindy's back, climbed on board bareback (and bare footed), and headed up the trail, back to my high camp. The day before, I had started my adventure looking like a silver screen cowboy. Now, only one day later, tired and dirty, I looked more like a plow boy. So much for image!

That night, I took no chances. I tied the mare's lead rope to a second rope strung high up between two trees. As I reflected on the events of the day, I was thankful that Cindy had not been hurt. I was sore- bottomed and bowlegged, but no worse for wear...except for the half-dollar sized blisters on my toes and heels. Perhaps horse camping was not so easy after all! I acknowledged to myself that I still had a lot to learn.

Nothing is more sobering to me, when I think about horse camping, than the thought of being a few days out in the back country and losing my horse. To wake up in the morning and not see your horse where you left him (or her) the night before brings thoughts of desperate searches, long walks, even finding the horse injured, or dead. With some knowledge, and some pre-trip lessons about pickets, bells, and hobbles for your horse, these unpleasant scenarios can usually be avoided. I have done some experimenting over the years, (once again, in the school of hard knocks). Here are a few of the solutions I've come up with. They work okay for me. Maybe they'll work for you, too.

First, I look for a place to camp that has plenty of feed for my horse, water within easy walking distance, a good view (for me), and lots of space for the horse(s) to drift around, where I can still keep an eye on them. I try to make camp by late afternoon, to allow plenty of time for my horse to graze, while I set up my tent. As soon as the horses are unpacked and unsaddled, I take them off a ways, where they won't be a nuisance, bell them, hobble one of them (the leader), and turn them loose. After a day on the trail, they're usually content to graze and visit with their buddies.

I use small Swiss cow bells, tied under the throat latch, either to the halter, or on a separate neck strap, to keep track of the horses whereabouts. Don't tie the bell down where the lead rope attaches to your halter. It'll interfere with the horse's eating, and ring furiously all the time. Tied up under the throat latch, it'll only ring as the horse moves more abruptly, or if he gets himself hung up and is in trouble. Although the bells may be a bit of a nuisance around camp, you'll get to where you can interpret their ringing, even in your sleep. They sure make finding a loose horse, who has wandered off, a heck of a lot easier.

For hobbles, I prefer nylon. They are lighter than leather, and don't stretch and get mungy when they get wet. Get some that are two inches wide and padded to protect the soft skin around your horse's pasterns. There are lots of cheap hobbles on the market. But, most of them are too narrow, and tend to sore a horse quickly.

Put the hobbles on the front legs, low, around the pastern. They don't have to be real tight. If your horse has never been hobbled before, hobble break him at home, in a safe place. Keep a lead rope on him, so you can guide him, and help him not to hurt himself, in case he panics, thrashes around, or wants to run off and crash through a fence. Horses usually adjust to hobbles quickly, but the first few lessons can be a little traumatic for them. Use an area with plenty of space and a soft landing. Horses that are accustomed to hobbles can travel amazing distances in the course of a night. So, don't depend on hobbles alone to keep your horses around camp when you can't keep an eye on them.

At night, to be sure I am riding, not walking the next day, I tie my horses out. But I don't just tie them to a tree. A horse left tied to a tree gets restless and can do a lot of walking. They can paw and dig a ditch around the tree, possibly killing it, or at least leaving an unsightly area. Using two one inch wide nylon straps as anchors around the trees (to prevent unnecessary wear and tear), I tie a 50-foot-long piece of polypropylene rope tightly between the trees, about as high as I can reach. Next, I tie an eye (use a figure- eight knot) in the end of my cotton lead line. Then I clip two carabiners (the type used in rock climbing), with their gates reversed (to keep them from coming undone), through the eye, and to the poly-pro rope. Leave enough length for the horse to get its head to the ground, but not so much that he can step over the lead rope and get himself tangled up. Now, your horse will be able to travel up and down the line, even side to side, and keep himself amused. This not only allows him to eat some more, it also keeps him calm and happy. I have found this method to be more hassle-free, and safer for the horse than tying directly to a picket rope, although in open country there may be times when you have no choice.

If you do have to picket your horse, (tie him directly to a fixed line) make sure the anchor is securely fastened, or heavy enough that the horse will not be able to pull it around easily. A spooked horse, dragging a small log behind it can cause a big wreck in short order.

Things are a little easier when you travel with a group, as opposed to traveling alone. Horses, like most people are gregarious. They enjoy company. So, when their work is done, they like hanging out together. By watching them, and observing their pecking order, you'll soon see who the boss horses are. Hobbling the leaders will usually keep the others close at hand.

At night, on our riding trips, we have instituted a program we call "night watch." We all take turns, one at a time, staying awake to keep an eye on the horses. This may sound like overkill, but it has proven to be not only successful, but memorable. The horses do not all need to be tied up and can graze through the night. It seems that many folks find it especially peaceful and contemplative to spend a few hours by themselves, watching the stars go around the heavens, and listening to the tinkling of cow bells and the munch, munch of horses chewing.

All of a sudden, a shiver snapped me out of my reverie, back into reality. My mind had been drifting for quite some time. I realized it was almost dark! The last rays of light created a halo around the highest peaks on the skyline ridge. As a shadow moved across me, I felt the air turn cold almost immediately. Begrudgingly, I turned my horse back toward camp. I knew that, soon, a hot cup of soup would warm my belly. My spirit was already warmed by the memories of so many wonderful days spent traveling the back country on my horse, living my fantasies, experiencing the joy and the freedom of creating my own adventures on horseback.

HOW TO TIE UP YOUR HORSE
Remember the little saying about trusting in Allah, but tying up your camel? Well, it's also important to be able to untie him when you want to. A camel, or a horse, tied up in a way that makes it hard (to impossible) to untie it in an emergency, especially when the horse is applying full force (pulling like hell) on the other end, is an accident waiting to happen. It is best to learn how to tie up correctly, right at the start, and then make it a permanent habit. Remember, repetition is the mother of skill. Practice makes perfect. So learn to tie up your horse right, right now, and avoid an unnecessary "fubar" (fowled up beyond any repair) in the future.

Let's break this down into steps. O.K.?!

Step 1. Holding the working end of the lead rope (the part that goes to the horse) with your right hand, use your left hand to throw the loose end of the rope over the top of the rail you're going to tie to. Good!

Step 2. Re-grasp the section of the rope that has just gone over the rail (loose end) with your left hand while you continue to hold the rope between rail and horse (working end) with your right hand. Both hands should be about sixteen inches to two feet below the bar. O.K.?

Step 3. Adjust the rope length so that the horse has adequate slack, but can't step over the rope, or get caught in it. In other words, leave the right amount of slack in the working end of the rope. Now you're ready to go ahead.

Step 4. With your right hand -- hold the working end of the rope between your thumb and forefinger. Stretch your other fingers out straight. Now, (still holding on), roll your hand over. Point your little finger up, so your (right) knuckles are facing you. Now, without letting go, reach across to the loose end of rope (that's in your left hand) and grasp it with your right fingers (little finger still up) above where your left hand holds the rope.

Step 5. Holding the loose end of the rope with your right fingers; turn your right hand over, to form a loop. Hold this loop with right hand. You can let go now with your left hand. Lower your left hand. Bring your left hand back up, inside the hanging, loose end of the rope, and pinch the spot where both ropes cross each other to form the loop. With your left hand, hold the loop in place. Good!

Step 6. Now, let go of the loop with your right hand. Reach around (right to left) behind the rope that goes to the horse (working end) and take hold of the hanging (loose end) of the rope, right below the loop. Bring it up and all the way around, (left to right), behind the (working) rope and all the way to the front. Push small segment of it down through the loop you're holding in left hand, (front to back).

Step 7. Push this new loop down through old loop, with index finger of right hand. Pull it down with your left hand, to form the knot. Pull the knot tight to form a kind of figure eight. Voila!

Step 8. The loose end will still be hanging free. To secure your horse, when you are not there to keep an eye on things, run the loose end through the new loop (you have just created). This will prevent the horse from untying the knot by pulling on the rope. Remember to take it back out of loop before you untie your horse.

To untie, pull loose end. A properly tied knot will pull free, even under pressure. Always try to tie your horse high. A frightened horse, that pulls back with full force, can get more leverage and do more damage (possibly to itself) if it is tied low. Avoid problems. Tie high.

 NIGHT LINE
The best way to handle horses at night, on an overnight trip, is to tie then out on a night line. Select two sturdy trees with open ground between them, about 40 to 45 feet apart. Try to pick a place where a little trampling by your horse won't leave a permanent scar, or cause erosion. A flat, open place, with plenty of grass is best. If the same spot is not used over and over again, it will usually recover quickly. To protect the tree's cambium layer, (the living layer where cell growth takes place right below the bark), use a tree saver strap. Nylon, or polypropylene webbing, two inches wide, does a great job. Use a piece about a yard long, with an eye tied or sewed into each end. Tree savers protect the trees from rope burn.

Run your tree saver strap around the tree, up high, as high as you can reach, plus some. Take a fifty foot long piece of polypropylene rope and tie it through the eyes in one end of the tree saver strap (after you put it around the tree). A bowline knot works great, and its easy to untie, even after its been under pressure. Now, put another tree saver strap around the other tree you plan to use. Stretch your night line between them. Once again, get the strap as high as you can reach. Run the other end of your poly-rope through the loops in the second tree saver. Now pull it up, real tight, and tie. That's it!

Note: Here's a good way to get the night line stretched really tight. You've already tied one end of your poly-rope to the tree saver with a bowline. Right?! After putting the other end through the loops in the 2nd tree saver, come back along the part of the rope to be stretched. Tie a figure eight knot in this part of the rope, about 2 feet away from the tree. You'll have a loop (or an eye) at the end of the figure eight. Run the end of the night rope back through this loop. Now, you've got a kind of pulley system that will allow you to pull the rope much tighter. Tie it off with an overhand knot that can be released with a pull. You're in business.

To tie out your horse:

1. Put a figure eight in the end of your lead rope. Allow your horse enough slack to reach the ground to eat, without making it easy for him to step over the rope and get tangled. Use two carabiners, reversed (or one with a locking gate) to secure the lead line to the night line.

2. Set your night lines up so your horses can all see each other but can't tangle themselves with each other. Leave the horses on the night line as little as possible. The rest of the time they can be hobbled, and left to roam around to graze and socialize as you enjoy camp.

One other thing: If you want to keep your horse from walking around the tree (on either end of your night line), tie a figure eight in the night line about five feet from the tree on either end, before you pull it up tight. This will confine the carabiners to the central part of the night rope and stop the horse before he can go around the tree.

This book is available in it entirety from Have Saddle-Will Travel, Inc., Innovative Outfitter. To get your autographed copy go to www.havesaddlewilltravel.com, www.donwest.net, or call 800-821-3607.