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Member:
heidim

Posted on Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008 - 9:54 pm:

Hi. I admit I've avoided posting in a few months due to feeling like an amateur among way more experienced horse people. But here goes anyway. I want very much to train my three=year-old gelding to trail ride. What do I lack? A round pen, a corral, a level yard, a paddock in which to separate Coyote from the rest of the herd including his pseudo-mother mule while I train him, enough money to purchase a $500 set of training tapes, and serious training experience. What do I have? Almost 30 years of trail riding experience, a sincere respect for horses, an occasional burst of common sense, and (yes, believe it or not), time. I could really use some ideas and encouragement out there. I'd also like to know what precautions I can take to avoid as much as possible getting hurt while training. I admit my gelding kicked out at me a few months ago while I was longeing him, and it really bothered me. I got after him well enough to regain his respect (by the end of the lesson, he was doing that foal biting response that I've read means submission). I'm a Type A personality, and that is also against me. But I'd really like to see this thing through, as he's the first foal I've ever raised from birth and he's got many qualities that I will have a hard time finding elsewhere. So, go ahead...give it your best shot. Just please don't talk over my head.
Member:
ekaufman

Posted on Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008 - 11:16 pm:

Heidi,

Is the mule broke to ride? Is she a candidate for "ponying" the little guy on the trails? How well does he lead, tie etc.?
Moderator:
DrO

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 7:41 am:

Hello Heidi,
I read this at the AAEP site last week and when I read your post I thought of you. It basically explains the basis of every natural horsemanship techinque you will encounter in one easy step surplanting the need for those 500 dollar tapes:
One Step Horsemanship: A Sensible Approach to Horse Handling
By David Hayes, DVM
Behavior - Jan 7th, 08

Man has utilized horses throughout history. Horses have served as a source of food, as a beast of burden, as a war machine, a tiller of land and as a companion. In order for man to dominate them, horses were usually "broken," instilling fear of reprisal and abuse to get them to cooperate with man’s wishes.

It has been only in recent years that scientific studies have investigated how a horse’s mind works, what makes it tick, how the horse understands and why horses react the way they do. Research scientists have been studying horses in their natural habitat as well as in the research labs, watching their movements and charting their actions. Meanwhile, I have had the opportunity of working with horses "out in the field" on a daily basis as part of my vocation and profession. I wish to share with you my accumulation of over 50 years of experience working and learning from these horses. It is my hope that by explaining some very basic understandings of man's relationship with the horse that the horse will benefit as much as man.

"One Step Horsemanship" is an applied working philosophy so utterly simple it all too frequently is overlooked.

There are a few basic concepts, which I now believe to be true. Horses typically outweigh us 6:1, frequently 8:1. We are not able to out muscle them. However, the human brain is approximately six times larger than the horse‘s. If we could crawl inside their brains and understand what they thought, then maybe we’d be better able to convince them our requests are, in fact, reasonable.

Now, visualize the horse as a brain, like our own, only dressed in horse clothing. Acknowledge the horse as an animal, which thinks, understands, feels and has emotions. This is paramount to understanding horses.

Relate to a horse just as we would to another person. We all have friends we enjoy and enjoy spending time with, but we also have people we know who upset us, and who "push our buttons." If given a choice, we always choose the people who make us feel good.

It is the same with horses. Allow them the opportunity to choose us as a friend, and give them the reason to want to be with us. We should treat our horses as we would our friends. Always be honest, always tell the truth, never be rude, let them know when they have done something unacceptable, and especially, tell them when they have done a good job. Praise and reward for a job well done. Build a solid relationship based on praise, good feeling and honesty. This is the key to "One Step Horsemanship."

Now envision a horse contained within an imaginary frame or box. The horse is relaxed, his head and neck in neutral, his spine longitudinally straight and neutral. He is comfortable. Then consider the spine of a horse much like a long spring. (I always think of the long thin spring attached to the old-fashioned screen doors.) The spring is always seeking straightness. If you put pressure on one end of the spring, pushing or pulling it out of straightness, it pulls or pushes against you. By placing the spring in an abnormal position you create energy within the spring, and that energy seeks straightness.

So it is with a horse. If we move a horse out of its neutral position, out of that imaginary frame, and change the position of the spine out of straightness (bending the spring), energy is created wanting to regain "neutral." "One Step Horsemanship" is based on this concept.

It can be challenging when we ask a horse to take a step forward, and the horse is not at that level of education. It seems a horse’s natural tendency, maybe based on survival instincts, is to resist when being pulled. The challenge for us is showing the horse that by taking a step forward he will be rewarded, he will find comfort.

The following method is the groundwork for "One Step Horsemanship."

Make sure the rope halter fits nicely, the throatlatch is snug and centered, the noseband lies just below the facial crest and the cheek pieces avoid the eyes. I personally prefer the medium sized rope halters with a balanced, long enough lead rope attached without a snap.

Standing a couple of yards away from the horse, slowly pull on the lead rope until you move the head and neck "out of the box." The spine is now "out of straightness." Do not continue to pull, but merely hold the rope in that position, and wait. And wait some more. (This is a true test of patience.)

If this request of walking forward is new to the horse, he will not understand. He will pull on the rope, twist his neck, stick his nose out, and roll his eyes and maybe even jerk backwards. But maybe, just maybe, he steps forward. Because you are only holding him out of position, not continuing to pull, the forward step loosens the rope. He has found relief in the release, and with the relief comes understanding.

To better this lesson, we do the same again, only this time we respond quicker. Our goal should be to provide release not when the horse’s foot has moved and hit the ground, but before, when the hoof is leaving the ground. Even better, we should be giving release when the horse mentally decides to move the foot. Movement is initiated in the mind, and the faster relief is given, the better the lesson.

We are merely asking for a step. One step, only one step. We are teaching the horse to seek the reward of release. Release is the initial reward, but better yet, is the praise we give after the release. Verbal praise combined with stroking of the head and neck reinforces the success. Make a big deal of the accomplishment; comfort him with praise and love. Make him feel good.

Then ask him again. Move his head out of position and hold. Wait for the desired movement. When done correctly, the hold and waiting period will be shorter. The horse is beginning to understand and is searching for that good feeling you provided. When releasing on initiation of the step, "push" the rope back to the horse making the release even faster. The faster you respond the better the lesson.

Allow the horse a short time between your requests. Let him process what has just happened. Give him time to relax. He will often lick his lips, soften his muzzle and lower his head in understanding.

Then ask again. A few steps forward, one step back, a few steps forward, always waiting, always rewarding. With each succeeding move we lighten our request. Instead of asking with five pounds of pull and hold, we ask with only two pounds and now with only one pound, and now with merely half of a pound, then hardly with a feeling. Finally, maybe with only a thought!

We are instilling a desire in the horse to respond to the lightest possible request by putting praise and good feeling into the end. This is his reward, and he soon begins seeking ways to find this reward. The horse is now working for us; he is now thinking with us, he wants to be our friend. He is now our partner, not our slave.

"One Step Horsemanship" is applicable to all forms and levels of education. It is based on one step, only one step, and then another. It is about our relationship with our horse. It is about our own personal learning curve and our relationship with life. It is all about taking one good step, then feeling good about it. Let’s do it again...

Considering the limitations you right about, you put your helmet on, get on the horse when you think he is ready and willing to bear some weight and listen to some amount of direction and then you ride... There are hundreds of ways to get to this point and that is where you apply your common sense remembering: the smaller the steps, the smaller the problems you are likely to have.
DrO
Member:
ajudson1

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 8:02 am:

Love it, DrO! Not often we hear from the trainer in you.
Member:
dtranch

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 8:29 am:

Dr O .. Thanks for posting that article. This is the exact method I have used for years, especially for trailer loading problems and it works like a dream. Patience and immediate recognition is the key. Good to read that my method has been validated.
DT
Member:
heidim

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 8:31 am:

Oh, that is good, Dr. O. I admit I hadn't pushed Coyote until that day he kicked out, and then he was upset. I only did so because someone told me too many people overtrain their horses and that I should move along faster. I like the idea of slow, too, because I can stop and research solutions when I get stuck. I'm in no hurry to ride him because I have others at my disposal.

To Elizabeth, yes, the mule would be great for ponying. She's 25 years old and an ace on the trail. Coyote leads and ties well. He walked right into the trailer the first time I tried to load him (the mule was already loaded).
Member:
ekaufman

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 10:00 am:

So Heidi, I think you have what you'll need, God willing and the creek don't rise.

On top of all this good advice, and Dr. O's marvelous post, I'd explore what's available (books and videos) at your local library or for loan from your HA and other horse buddies. It can help to watch good trainers in action. Their body language and timing are worth seeing.

Sounds like you can bring him along as slow as you need-- he's plenty young-- and when you feel safe doing it, start ponying him on your favorite trails with his "mom" the mule. Make sure she leads well too, because you can eventually start switching your ride half-way through, and pony the mule off the youngster.
Member:
corfiela

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 11:19 am:

I really like that article. I would also suggest that not only is your horse your friend, but the ones you raise yourself are like your children. They need direction, but always within the comforting bounds of your good will. I did a lot of ground work like this author describes. I think of it like a language between horse and woman. Getting on his back was, of course, a little nerve wracking, but it was the logical next step. My horse trusts me (and he's bold and curious, so I'm lucky there), so it's going very easily. Good luck! Trust your instincts.
Member:
chrism

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 11:20 am:

I'd like to suggest that horses do not necessarily learn and present their understanding of training in a linear fashion. So, expect ups and downs and forwards and backwards responses. Things I have collected that have helped me and that are worth considering:

Any consistent system is better than no system. Focus on being consistent.

Work with today's horse, not yesterday's.

Break the learning up into very small chunks. Smaller than you think. Think sub-atomic.

Try the "less is more" philosophy - many horses respond very well to very light requests once they get the idea of what you desire.

Make sure there isn't a physical reason for misbehavior. Candidates for pain include teeth, bit placement, saddle fit. Change in behavior for the worse suggests a physical issue or that you are going too fast or not incremental enough.

Each horse is an individual and responds in an individual fashion. Know thy horse.

Horses are not machines or poodles. They have a sense of self, preferences and are individuals. They are not just big dogs or motivated by altruism. Nor are they ATVs that you can power up when convenient.

Steady, frequent, small bouts of training that end with positive, successful answers from the horse are best. Try to work the horse daily.

If you need to apply a correction, get in, get out and move on.

Don't be afraid to seek help if you are stymmied, run out of ideas or out-horsed. (Did you know the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different outcome? Horses do.)

Tell the horse when they are doing it correctly - with a pat, verbal praise, a walk break, etc. Praise/reward should occur much more often than correction.

The first horse is the hardest. You fix and break it many times as you perfect your own skills. Be humble enough to stop, count to ten and re-think your strategy as things are going down hill. A calm human inspires the horse to be cooperative.

Park your ego at home. Sublimate personal desires. Live in the moment of training. This is hardest, especially when someone is watching or you are at a show.

Do what is in the horse's best interest.

Reward the "try."

Review your work often. Keep a log. Look for trends. Be creative.

Thank your horse often for being your teacher.

Good luck. Training your own horse can be very rewarding.
Member:
shanson

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 1:17 pm:

Great article and thread! One other suggestion...don't forget your public library. Great for folks on a budget. I found a lot of good books at our central library on a variety of equine subjects.
Member:
erika

Posted on Thursday, Jan 17, 2008 - 5:36 pm:

I love this site!
Member:
heidim

Posted on Friday, Jan 18, 2008 - 5:56 am:

Thanks, Sharon. I do make use of our public library. If only one could ask questions of books! Also, I'd still like to hear and I suspect others in my position would also like to hear more ideas about training with less. Concrete, practical ideas are welcome and appreciated. As a teen, I worked at a saddlery with a professional trainer. He taught himself to train as a kid. Because he knew I was on a budget, he showed me how to make the saddlery's pricey training tack out of baling twine and stuff from the hardware store. I sure miss having him as a resource.
Member:
ajudson1

Posted on Friday, Jan 18, 2008 - 7:15 am:

Christine;

That's worthy of posting in my tack room! Laminated and in full view to remind me daily of having some "horse sense" LOL!

Thanks much!
Member:
maggienm

Posted on Friday, Jan 18, 2008 - 11:02 am:

Heidi,
I am in a similar situation as you. I have no round pen, only a corral, which is not level or round, and a pasture.
I have a level area between the hayshed and corral that is about 14'across, if I want a larger area I have to go to the pasture.
As both Alan and Dennis have said the horse has to learn to respond to you regardless of where he is or where his buddies are.
This is a common issue I have had to work through with all my horses. When the horse acts up on the line like you described stick with him and change direction or just make him keep going. It might get ugly but persevere. It will get better.

One of the things I do is to teach the horse to change directions on the lunge line. (I teach my horses 'formal' lunging as well as what is referred to as 'sending'-both are useful).
When the horse acts up I can use change of direction as a means of refocusing him. If his attention is really not with me I might change direction every 3-4 steps with a half circle every 3 changes. This is hard work and quickly gets the horses attention. Remember, once the attention is back on you reward the horse by letting him walk calmly in one direction or even halt for a bit. The quicker you are to reward, the quicker he learns. Some people make the mistake of waiting for -a close to perfect response- before rewarding,
What does that look like in practice?
So, I am lunging, horse tries to leave, I hold the line, obviously the line is tight, horses head is high, he won't go forward, he looks at me-immediately I give a bit with the line, I don't throw it away just a small release, he probably takes the slack and tries to leave again. I am maneuvering trying to get behind his shoulder so I can send him off, he takes half a step in the right direction, I give him a touch of slack, this dance might take some time.
If I am at this stage I do use a shorter line. If you think the horse might kick you the first lesson is get him over that.
The first rule of horse training is you stay safe, the second is the horse stays safe.

Another thing I do is lead the horse over any bit of plastic, tarp, piece of lumber, cardboard or sleeping bag I can find. Sometimes a horse will walk over but not on the obstacle. I worked with one of the horses for the better part of an afternoon until she would step on and walk over an old sleeping bag. Calmly and quietly that is.
I usually pick up the obstacle and move it around also, if I can I put it on the horse.
All this improves the horses trust that 'stuff' isn't going to hurt him and that he can trust that you won't take him where he will get hurt.
I take the horses through the hayshed, one end is quite wide and the other end has hay stacked up so there is just a narrow doorway so the horse brushes on the hay in order to exit.

Another thing I do, (my horses think I am a crazy lady) I will start lunging at a walk on perhaps a 14' line and start waving a small piece of plastic tarp. I start moving slowly because the goal is not to frighten the horse but to accustom him to all manner of unusual things. When I can wave slowly and he is relaxed I pick up the pace, when he is fine with that I shorten the line a bit. Eventually I can wave that bit of plastic tarp up and down as hard as I can on both sides of the horse (make sure you touch him with the tarp) and he doesnt' care.
If you don't have an old piece of tarp use a large garbage bag.
Another thing I do...again you have to start slow and work up, jumping jacks while holding the feed bucket.
The point of these exercises is to teach your horse to trust you, stay focused on you, do what you ask even when it is unusual to the horse.
I have made 'tunnels by stacking square bales up close to the fence, drape a tarp over the top, let some of the tarp hang down so it brushes over th horse.
You can use a similar idea to teach loading. In that case you 'send' the horse into the tunnel.
Another inexpensive training idea is to get your horse used to ropes or manure fork touching his legs and feet, gently toss a soft brush at his legs even his barrel, put a blanket on his back and pull it over his neck and head, until as soon as he feels it coming up his neck he lowers his neck and stays relaxed as you pull it over his head and doesn't mind if it stops and covers his eyes.
When lunging place a tarp in the path so he has to walk over it, use something as caveletti, even a square bale, so he learns to go over it if you say so.
Saddle up and hang a plastic container filled with gravel form the saddle so it does bump him, fill a metal container with rocks so it makes noise and hang that from the saddle.
If you work through these things over the next couple of months you will have a much more focused and confident horse who is ready to ride.
New Member:
laraby

Posted on Friday, Jan 18, 2008 - 11:50 am:

Hi, I trained my horse with limited resources myself.
Here's what I did:
1. Purchased Clinton Anderson tapes/DVD's on Ebay, copied them, and re-sold them on Ebay, so total cost was very low. CA's methods are easy to understand and worked great with my mare.
2. I had left-over fencing so made my own "round pen" on grass - not perfect footing and it's not level but it works. (only if you don't think your horse will go over/thru fencing - be sure not to use too much pressure)
good luck!
Abby
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