Site Menu:
This is an archived Horseadvice.com Discussion. The parent article and menus are available on the navigation menu below: |
HorseAdvice.com » Training, Behavior, & Conditioning Horses » Behavior and Training » Trailer Loading a Horse » Travelling Questions » |
Discussion on Horse Trailer HELP needed | |
Author | Message |
Posted on Monday, May 24, 1999 - 7:20 pm: I am planning on buying a horse trailer in the next couple of weeks and am running into some questions as regard to the hitch that I should buy. I have a 1997 Ford Explorer V8 - I am told that just the cost of the hitch w/out any electrical is @$200.00 - the electrical can run anywhere from $200-250. My question, do I need a 6 or 7 prong adapter and do most new trailers now come with electric brakes? Are electric brakes better then surge brakes? I know nothing about trailers and will be buying one in Sacramento and trailering it down to Southern California - I don't want to be in any danger pulling it for 8 hours by having the wrong set up on my car. Thanks for anyones advise :) |
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 1999 - 11:15 am: I think the trailer people ought to be able to answer your questions about electric brakes, what adapter it comes with, etc. If you are buying it from a trailer company, they might be able to do the hitch/electrical work you need when you are there.You also need to know what size hitch ball is required for the trailer. My own trailer is a Brenderup and it has surge brakes - they work just fine. I do think electric brakes are more the norm. I had the hitch and electric brake control put on my truck. Then I found the trailer used, so I towed to the hitch guy and he fixed all the electric coupling stuff for me. As it turned out, I didn't need the electric brake control, so that was a waste of $$. |
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 1999 - 12:23 pm: Chris,Thanks for the advise - I wish I could call the trailer company but I am going to the Western horse expo and am planning on buying a trailer there so I can't really talk to them before hand - I have put a call into the people organizing this and asked them if there will be someone on site who can install a hitch. Also, yesturday I went to the U-HAUL dealer and they can put the whole thing in for about $200.00 less then everyone else, the only difference that I can see is that they do not weld the hitch into place, instead they bolt it onto the truck - do you think that this is as safe as it being welded? One last thing, you say that you have a Brenderup trailer - Is this like the ones that I see in the magazines that say they are designed for smaller cars to tow? I am VERY interested in this trailer - was it real expensive? |
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 1999 - 3:18 pm: Buffy,I can't help you with the hitch bolt vs. weld question. I do love my Brenderup. I got it used a few years ago, by sheer luck. They are easy to tow - I have to remind myself I've a trailer back there. They have a web site https://www.brenderuprealtrailers.com/index.htm I think they are having a special on one model. Mine is an '87 and the floor has been replaced once by a local guy. I had the stuff shipped in from Brenderup - it wasn't cheap, but the labor was very low as it was a fairly easy job. Good luck. |
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 1999 - 4:10 pm: My husband and I have spent the last 27 years in our own land clearing business. towing is an evey day thing whether it is a backhoe and dumptruck or horses.1. don't get surge brakes unless you like to be involved in accidents. they are fine for small stuff but a hugh no-no on anything larger than a jetski trailer. 2. They has been a lot of hype about those Benderup trailers and I have seen a couple on the road here pulled by things like lite pick ups and Jeep cherokees. I'll tell you one thing you couldn't pay me to ride in that set up much less tow it!!! People don't seem to realize that when you are towing a rig the big thing is not getting going, most vehicles can pull the weight of a trailer up to speed. It's the getting stoped! The weight of a trailer is only one part of the equation, add the weight of the horses, tack, and people and then look at the tow vehicle... how much does it weigh? or how much is it out weighed by the trailer, then look at the breaking power of the tow vehicle. A 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck has brakes that are designed to be able to stop against the "rated" payload and tow load. Those trucks will have heavy duty 10-12 inch brakes. Now a passenger vehicle (light truck, jeep cherokee, etc) is equiped to be able to stop it self and maybe a trailer that is lighter (a jet ski or small boat) but in no way can it reliably stop a trailer that, at best, out weighs it by 2 or three times! Haveing been trained and responded to Equine Extrication situations where people didn't maintence their trailer or had an unsafe setup trust me when I say: A trendy car and trailer is cute and impressive untill you have to have your horse cut out of it on the side of the road... I'm sure the Benderups are a fine trailer but I am not impressed with them advertising them being pulled by passenger vehicles. Anyone who has towed knows the insanity of that combination. I belive all new horse trailers have brakes, but realize that they are ther to HELP stop the rig and to HELP keep things safe in a high speed incident. Don't expect that trailer brakes are going to do all the work, they just can't, period. As for what type of hitch that is prefrence as far as bumper pull vs. goosneck, either way the place you buy the trailer from should provide you with that service from installing the hitch an breaks to guarenteeing them. That can all be decided when you look at the tow combination and the wiring schemes on each... let the experts worry about that. On a personal note try Esperro Trailer Sales out of Arizona 1(888) 848-6949. Terry sold us our current trailer and we found that we saved over $2000 and have a better trailer than comperable ones sold locally. Ours is a ProStock 3H Gooseneck, walk in tack room, for $5900 new. I love it and we tow it with a '90 Chev Heavy Half Ton (5/8 ton) with 11 inch brakes, 350 automatic with a HyperTech Towing chip. |
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 1999 - 5:32 pm: Well, my Dodge Dakota x-cab is rated to tow 6800 lbs. It has no trouble with the Brenderup on back roads and highways.I've had the Brenderup for 6 years and have had no trouble braking when I needed to. What do you think the folks in Europe use? They'd never get a dually through the streets there, yet they haul horses over the alps and autobahns ... |
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 1999 - 6:42 pm: Chris-I am not sure as far as Europe goes, but I know I have had to cut the horses and people out of messes here in the good ol' usa when people pull with scary set ups. (I am not saying yours is by any means) Like I said I am sure that the Brenderup is a nice trailer, just don't know that I would pull it with Mercades Benz like in the addvertisement I saw. Glad to hear that you haven't had any trouble, and I sincerely hope that you don't ever. I guess I tend to err on the side of caution after seeing what happens when you mix 50+mph, 2 horses, and an unexpected stop. Its not pretty and it leaves a lasting impression on you, one that makes you a strong supporter of (as my husband calls it) ARS (anal retentive safety). I will gladly accept that title for my self after seeing what I've seen. -Emily |
|
Posted on Friday, May 28, 1999 - 11:09 am: Emily,Actually, the only trailer accident in my experience was at a stand still when a filly climbed up in the manger of a very solid steel trailer and peeled her forehead open. I sure wish I could afford that Mercedes, though ;O) At the end of the day, we can do what we can to drive safely and avoid accidents. Too bad other drives can't always extend the same courtesy. |
|
Posted on Friday, May 28, 1999 - 12:32 pm: Now that is the godspell... It seams that 98% ofthe poeple on the roads here in Washington feel compelled to do somthing stupid in the presence of a horse trailer. We have woked some pretty ugly accidents, some the fault of the horse owners, some the fault of other drivers. What amazes me is how unprepared people hauling stock are for an accident. You would think that common sence would tell you to 1) have your vets name/number *written down* in your trailer incase you can't tell it to the extrication staff. 2) have at least ONE extra halter in the trailer. My favorite "heads up" story is a friend who was hauling up into the hills, the logging road gave way and rolled his truck and trailer. Their cell phone wasn't gettign service and they were many miles from anything. They were fine and the horse were apearently unhurt, but they were hoplessly stuck in a rolled trailer lying on top of each other 3 high. Although untrained, the two men managed to cut the horse out and use the matts of the trailer to create a slide to remove the horses. They were quick thinkers, and saved the horses by there actions. Ofcourse they also carried a spare halter & lead for every horse & an excelent first aid kit. Goes to show it can happen, and does more than people realize. |
|
Posted on Tuesday, Aug 10, 1999 - 9:21 am: We are trailer-shopping and have been very impressed with the Brenderup (sounds like others have too) -- I wasn't planning on towing it with my VW Jetta GLX even though they say I can -- we have a full-size pick-up. I am planning on using the trailer with only 1 horse (Reuben, my 16.2 TBx) and 2 Mt. Bikes and am wondering how the lighter/one-sided weight would affect (effect?) the trailer's performance. Any thoughts or comments? Also, I'm curious if anyone else goes riding with their significant other(s) on horse and Mt. Bikes? (not motorbikes...) |
|
Posted on Tuesday, Aug 10, 1999 - 12:59 pm: If you plan to tow with a full size rig you should be ok on only haveing 1 horse in it. However here is a safety suggestion, when only hauling one horse in a 2 horse straight load always have the horse on the drivers side. This put the horses weight over the tires closest to the center of the road so if you get in trouble and a tire catches the ditch the horses weight won't propell you further into the ditch, instead it will help you maintain control. If you get a slant load and haul only one horse load them as directly over the trailer axels as possible, it will make the whole works more stable.As for the bike thing you should be fine if the horse is used to the bike. My girlfrind goes horse back riding with her kids on bikes (with a safe distance of course & helmets). -Emily |
|
Posted on Tuesday, Apr 17, 2001 - 7:47 pm: I have been reading the response messages from Emily French regarding her impression of the Brenderup trailer and now am concerned about the safety. I recently purchased a Baron Brenderup and pull it with my Chevrolet Venture Van. Since I have had the trailer less than a month I have used it only twice. Both times the weather was very windy and rainy. I felt extremely safe pulling and especially braking with this trailer. I have pulled other types of trailers and must admit the Brenderup seems much easier to control. Is there something I am missing? Should I be concerned about the safety of this trailer? Any comments will be appreciated.Jane |
|
Posted on Tuesday, Apr 17, 2001 - 10:23 pm: Jane--I've owned my Brenderup about the same length of time as you have and hauled with it five times. I haul two horses in it with a V-6 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I too feel extremely safe using it, esp. with the stability and brakes. I don't think you're missing anything. Remember, the B/up is NOT engineered the same way as most American trailers--if any. If you search the internet, you will come up with reams of testimony pro and con. All in all, most people who own Brenderups swear by them; those without experience of them can be very leery. The occasional accounts I've read of people who tried them and did not like them are always peculiar in some way--one woman said she rented one and it fishtailed like crazy on the highway, which leads me to believe there must have been something wrong with that particular trailer, as mine is steady as a rock, even when I am passed by semis doing 80 and haul in heavy winds--in fact, my truck is much MORE stable when I am pulling the trailer than driving it alone. Another woman said she could see the trailer going "from a rectangle to a trapezoid" as the horse boarded--mine certainly doesn't do that. Brenderups are a very different animal, so to speak. Personally, I will never use anything else, and they have been marketed successfully in the States for some decades now, with an excellent track record. Do you have the video? If not, get yourself a copy. And relax and enjoy your new trailer! |
|
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 18, 2001 - 12:18 pm: One interesting conumdrum ...In an accident, is it preferable to have the horse walk away or minimal trailer damage? While I don't think the two things are totally at odds, I do think they can conflict. Take for example a Volvo - billed as a very safe car. The reason it is safe is that in a crash, it is designed to crumple up and dissapate the energy of the collision - protecting the occupants. However, the crumpling effect is very ugly to look at and makes repairs more expensive. Now, in a steel trailer, the fabrication of the trailer is very sturdy, but how are the occupants shaken up in a collision? How much of the energy reaches the occupant. Is an impact with steel more harmful that one with wood or fiberglass? What actually happens in there? How do the horses behave if the trailer must be "disassembled" to remove them at the accident scene? How fast can a trailer be disassembled? Just thinking of this makes me want to carry a fast acting IV tranq when I haul - maybe for me! I can't answer these questions, but they are the type that cause me to wonder if a trailer that looks worse at impact, but the horse can be extracted easier from may be better bet. A friend of mine lost the riding use of her mare in a steel trailer near-accident. It was as simple as braking very hard to avoid an accident. The mare managed to fall in the trailer in a very difficult position, causing permanent damage to her nuchal (sp?) ligments. Getting her righted was hard. Unfortunately, the mare is not sound to be ridden. Sometimes this stuff is just terrible bad luck. I don't know. The more I read and hear, the more I try to avoid trailering, GRIN. Clearly, it depends on the specifics of the accident situation. Too bad we don't have crash tests for horse trailers with equine dummies in them. But then the trailers would be even more expensive. I am still comfortable pulling my Brenderup with my Dodge Dakota x-cab. One horse or two, it seems fine to me. Cheers. |
|
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 18, 2001 - 8:00 pm: Nonie and Chrism,Thanks to both of you for your replies. I do have the tape of the Brenderup and the engineering that was shown is what sold me. When I travel to horse shows I frequently have to travel on Interstate Highways that have a lot of semi-trucks. I agree with you, Nonie, that I felt safer with the trailer attached that when I'm driving without it. Thanks |
|
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 18, 2001 - 8:00 pm: In my experience and the general concensus with the people I was trained by for extrication, the best odds are in a sturdier physical construction and appropriate sized tow vehicle.For exsample, It is popular now for manufacutures to use fiberglass roofs on steele trailers to reduce the weight... to accomidate smaller tow vehicles. The unfortunate side effect is the animals are more easily ejected through the roof as it is not as strong and cannot retain a 1000lb projectile as a solid steele roof. The sight of the resulting mess of shattered figerglass and a thrashing tied horse is one I will leave to your imagination. I have not personally seen a fiberglass covered wood trailer in an accident but have simlar concerns. Aluminum seems to retain its integrity but I have seen it "shatter" in the hitch area. The next big factor to me personally is the inside being free from dangers: sharp edges, mangers, water buckets, etc. It is really preferable to keep them inside the trailer through the accident AND if possible through the righting of the trailer back onto its wheeles. As to the behavior of the horses, the desire is to leave them alone untill a vet can arrive to sedate them for the extrication or righting process. If they must be removed with or without sedation they are typially blindfolded, fitted with earplugs, and heavily wrapped in rescue blankets to avoid further injury. Each animal is assigned a Handler who's sole responsibility is to stay with the head, they call the shots and try to avoid any panic. *Usually* shock works to your benifit; the stunned animal can be removed with very little fight. The very best that you can do is to do everything you can to prevent getting in an accident in the first place. Once your in the accident its a crap shoot from there... roll the dice and see what you get at the end. My recomendations are: Never exceed the rated towing capacity of your vehicle... no matter what a trailer salesman may tell you. It's just not worth it. Have an independant, experienced RV/Hitch installer install your hitch & brake controller. This should be done with the actual trailer you intend to tow present. Practice controlled highspeed stops so that you understand the full pushing force of a trailer, then realize that what would happen with another 1000lbs+. At 55mph how quickly can you come to a stop safely? YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS before you have to do it! Once you know how fast you can stop then never follow another car any closer than that. I am a bit rabid about this stuff cuz I have seen the consiquences of set up that "will work" and/or people who have no concept of what it is to haul a live load. You know the saying... an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Emily |
|
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 18, 2001 - 8:03 pm: There is a book by Neva Kittrell Scheve, "The Complete guide to buying maintaining and servicing a horse trailer."Since I too, am a neophyte when it comes to hitches, trailer loads, hauling, etc. I bought this book and found it extremely helpful. I would also recoommend NOT using any one unfamiliar with horses, hitching for horses, or horse trailers in general. I also searched out the local uhaul store and had them estimate the job. They recommended a smaller class hitch and that it wasn't necessary for electric brake hook-up. I had brought my trailer over there for them to see it, and needless to say, they didn't have a clue about horses. You might pay a little more but don't take that chance. Search out the place that specializes in horse trailers. and knows what electric brakes are good and have installed them before. The benefit of the universal prong (8-prong) is that when people ask to borrow your trailer you can politely say, sorry our hook-ups don't match. But, you can buy the adaptor for approx.$20. I think i got the book thru amazon.com. |
|
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 18, 2001 - 8:10 pm: Emily,Thanks for your response. I agree with many of the points you make and the safety of my horses comes first. Actually that is why I chose the Brenderup. I did talk with a hitch dealer who has been in the business in Kansas City, MO for 35 years before making my purchase and to my surprise he was familiar with the Brenderup. Not many are. He said he was impressed with the engineering, especially the braking system. That is probably my favorite part as the driver. When I take my foot off the accelerator the trailer responds with its inertia brakes and decelerates with the vehicle instead of pushing it. Thanks again, Jane |
|
Posted on Thursday, Apr 19, 2001 - 10:39 am: Well, the Dodge is rated to tow 6800 lbs. So, I'm covered there, even with a conventional 2-horse.The guy who installed the hitch is "The Man" locally and knows about trailers, horses, etc. In fact, he ended up replacing the floor on my Brenderup ... loved the design, maintainability, etc. Never did he give me any feeling that anything about my rig was unsafe. Last I talked with him, he was considering being a "delivery point" for Brenderup. Not sure if he ever bothered, though as he has more business than he can shake a stick at. Emily brings up some great advice. I hope I never have to use most of it. GRIN. One thing I do that is a bit contrary, I don't tie my mare in the trailer. I prefer that she has a full range of head/neck motion. I agree with most everyone's points - do lots of research and never exceed the stated towing capacity of your vehicle. |
|
Posted on Thursday, Apr 19, 2001 - 11:27 am: On the note of towing others trailers....This one I found out the hard way; not all trailers are created equil. There are actually diffrent wireing scemes out there for lights/breaks which seem to be common to particular brands and area of manufactureing. It it possible to hook up to a trailer and have the lights and breaks appear to work but in the right circumstances have them not work properly. For exsample I had a truck all wired for hauling one trailer and hooked up to a new trailer. It was all good untill I found that I needed to stop on the side of the road, SOoooo.... I begin to slow down and put my Hazards on and ,..... BAM, BAM, BAM, BAM! Appearently the wireing in the truck cause a bleed-over which resulted in the trailer breaks locking up in time with the Hazards. Luckily I was only going about 25 at the time but still managed to get a nasty bump on my forehead and piss the horse off pretty good! Its funny now cuz no one got hurt but at the time it scared the begeepers out of me! I still shudder to think what could have happened if I was at highway speeds. |
|
Posted on Thursday, Apr 19, 2001 - 11:29 pm: Chris, I know you said this is contrary to what you should do and would like to know why? I believe you should always tie the horse in the trailer. Give him a long lead, but tie them.I had the biggest scare ever involving a horse in that I had put my mare in the trailer ( i was alone) and I go to tie the butt bar and then close the trailer door, by the time I had walked to the front (i have a two horse step up, no manger to walk thru) to tie her head she had totally turned her head ( full neck stretch) to be facing the back. She was stuck between her body and the manger wall. If she had panicked she would have been dead. It took me and lots of good luck to get her to slowly move her head back up and around the middle wall. I couldn't imagine how she had gotten her head that way in the first place. i was panicked. Luckily she didn't, but this is one reason I ALWAYS tie the horses head. It was truly a nightmare for me and the thought of it, again gives me shivers. I still get nervous when I am alone and have to put her in. |
|
Posted on Friday, Apr 20, 2001 - 8:57 am: Josephine, I must interject, if you tie a horse in a trailer (I do it both ways depending on circumstances) a long lead is dangerous as a horse can become entangled. I give a horse no more lead than will hang to the junction of the neck and chest and most times, depending on the set up of the trailer, much shorter. Just enough to be comfortable. I can think of no circunstances that a long lead would be appropriate for trailering.DrO |
|
Posted on Friday, Apr 20, 2001 - 9:55 am: I use a trailer tie (store kind) they can be made really short or approx 3 feet in length. When I say long I make it the 3 ft length not the shortest distance. My bad semantics.No i wouldn't do a long lead rope. I saw an accident like that too. The horse panicked and went back but was tied and was stuck with back feet on the ground and front end was tied and it was a step up trailer. I still don't know how he didn't break both legs under it. YIKES. I am thankful to have witnessed many of these things so I learn never to do many, many things I see "more experienced" people doing. I think common sense is the biggest guide. |
|
Posted on Friday, Apr 20, 2001 - 12:16 pm: Hmm.I don't think my Brenderup gives a horse enough side to side room to even think of turning around. I could see where that would be a problem with trailers that have wide standing stall areas. I like that she can stretch her nose down and clear it while traveling (no manger, just chest bar). As far as the long lead attached, I would worry she'd get her head under a loop of it, or paw and get a leg over ... I agree in general - we all need to look at our rigs and "think like the horse" when making these decisions. As a side note, a friend of mine was visiting one of the Carribean Islands, and noticed a horse in a pick up with wood slats built up the sides. She could see the horse's nose snuffling over the open top! |
|
Posted on Sunday, Apr 22, 2001 - 12:08 pm: Would you belive I saw horse in the back of a pick up here in the US a couple years ago. Steele shoes, NO side rails, tied (in knots) to a bed ring...and as calm as can be. I approched the old mexican man with a look of horror on my face at the gas station to ask him how he got the horse in there. He replied "Da Shooot" (the cattle shot). He pulled into traffic and I watched as the horse leaned for the corner and braced as the old stick shift truck lurched up to 50 mph. |
|
Posted on Sunday, Apr 22, 2001 - 10:27 pm: A shining example that Angels watch over horses too!!! |
|
Posted on Monday, Apr 23, 2001 - 1:15 pm: I had an uncle in Idaho who ran cattle most of his life. He was a genuine cowboy and tough as nails. He hauled his horse in a pickup with no sides all the time. He'd park in front of the coffe shop 1-2 hours at a time, and the horse would just stand there. And loading the horse was just a matter of asking him to jump into the pickup or jump out! |
|