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Discussion on Trouble Leading 2 year old Gelding | |
Author | Message |
Member: Rob10549 |
Posted on Monday, Oct 9, 2006 - 6:55 pm: My gelding came to me a little over a week ago. He came with a year of training and I had no problem walking him out to his new pasture. Then yesterday one of the grooms at my barn went to bring him in and he refused to move. Watching from a distance, I went to help b/c I didn't want him yanking on my horse. I helped get him moving by using a dressage whip and tapping lightly on his rear, then he started moving. This morning that same groom lead him out to the pasture and had to circle him several times before he would walk properly along side of him. When I went to get my horse this afternoon he was cozying up to his buddy in the adjacent paddock. I waited till he was finished and had walked away before going to get him. From the moment I put the lead on him I had TROUBLE. I stood at his shoulder, asked him to walk on and he refused. Then I tapped him lightly with the whip and instead of moving onward next to me he turned into and in front of me so I circled him and started again. Basically from that point on it was a disaster. He refused to listen to me, would not whoa, I had my elbow out and had to physically push him away. You can tell I am new at this! I have never had to deal with a misbehaving young horse. My trainer is coming tomorrow to help me but in the meantime I would like all the advice I can get! He was trained in natural horsemanship. The breeder and the woman who trained him over the past year say that he NEVER presented them with any problems leading and that he's testing my limits. HELP! Thanks, Determined to Stick with It! |
Member: Cbuck894 |
Posted on Monday, Oct 9, 2006 - 9:18 pm: He is definitely testing you. If you have a round pen I would suggest using it immediately to get back your Alpha status. What ever you do make sure you do not let him walk into you or in your space. Use the handle end of your lunge whip as a prod. Don't hit him with it unless he gets dangerous, just press it into his ribs if he gets in your space, he should always be at least an arms length away from you unless you invite him into your space.As for getting him to walk with you when being led, I just watched Clinton Anderson address that issue. He had a 2 year old that was refusing to walk along with him. He used the lunge whip in his off hand and tapped the horse on the butt as he asked him to walk on, always staying in the leading position. It worked fine for him, however I have had issues with this because I am small and the horse will sometimes try to run around you instead of just walking with you. I have found a lip string very helpful with stubborn 2 year olds that actually KNOW the concept but just don't CHOOSE to lead. I also use sweet feed as treats for good behavior. You'd be surprised how quickly they figure out that if they are good they get a little treat. I know many people don't agree with the treat concept, however how long would you do a job over and over for no compensation or reward just because someone wanted you to? I don't treat every single time and they are not allowed to beg. You would be surprised how well behaved even the naughtiest mare or stud can with a little treat once in a while for a job well done! |
Member: Imogen |
Posted on Tuesday, Oct 10, 2006 - 2:43 am: Poke him in the soft part of the nose just above the nostril gently but sharply (if that makes sense) to keep his head away from you if he gets in your space.If he tries to cross in front of you put your hand up in front of his eye traffic policeman style (so your thumb is in front of your nose and your palm points towards his eye - you may need to put your hand slightly in front of the eye if he is also rushing forward). If possible do leading lessons in a laneway or along the side of a building until he cops on so that you are only having to control direction on one side. Make sure when he does go somewhere with you there's a small reward at the other end but don't feed from the hand/encourage mugging for food. A handful of something nice in the feedbowl in the stable will work wonders. All the best Imogen |
Member: Rob10549 |
Posted on Saturday, Oct 14, 2006 - 12:35 pm: Thank you both for your advice. Carol, I'm small too and had the same problem you did yesterday. He wants to sit on my lap when he gets spooked....I used the blunt end of the whip but have not tried using my hand, will try that next. I find that treats do work b/c it keeps him focused on me, not the things that scare him. Yesterday, as we turned the corner of the barn to head to the doorway, he got scared. I stopped to let him look at the barn - bushes, nothing there - then he blew, trying to rush past me. I used the whip to push him away and my elbow and at one point my hands on his shoulder. He just pays no attention to me when he's freaking out. I didn't want to punish him for being scared so I just circled him best I could and moved him forward towards the barn. Yesterday I had forgotten to take my treats with me. Usually what I do, is make him work along the way back to the barn by asking him to WHOA, then treat him. This keeps him focused on me, not the scarey things. Funny thing was, that after this happened, and we got in the barn, we had the most successful day ever with him allowing me to pick his feet, stand still, no pawing and then we even took a walk outside and inside the barn. It was like a rollercoaster ride. This morning he walked out to his paddock beautifully. It's usually the afternoon walk back that causes an issue. I'll keep you posted on how things are going. Thank you for al your help. |
Member: Cbuck894 |
Posted on Saturday, Oct 14, 2006 - 1:44 pm: Robin,Does he always spook at the same location or just near the barn in general? If it is always the same spot, look around, is there a garbage can within sight? If there is, check out that garbage can, what is dumped in there - even if YOU can't smell anything from the spot where he spooks, their sense of smell is many times stronger than ours. A horse can smell water up to 7 miles away! There are things like coffee, rotten meat or food, etc that will cause some horses to freak. Another thought would be certain sounds, high pitched perhaps or just annoying to the horse that causes him to be nervous. If on the other hand it is not in one certain spot and just near the barn in general you have the opposite problem of those of us with barn sour horses! Instead of relating the barn to work you need to do the opposite and relate it to rest and comfort. Make him work away from the barn and then let him rest next to the barn, he will soon get the connection and be happy to return to the barn. Carol |
Member: Mcbizz |
Posted on Monday, Oct 16, 2006 - 7:31 pm: Hi, Robin...If you aren't using a rope halter and a 12'or 14' lead with a leather popper on the end, you might want to give it a try. It sure works for me! I am small also, need to make sure I don't get run over. The rope halter is more effective than a flat halter, in that the knots put pressure points on specific places and the nose band is an immediate reminder with a good tug. The long lead rope gives you and the horse room to maneuver and the popper on the end will keep him out of your space if you flick it at him when he gets too close. I don't find a whip even necessary which is one less thing to juggle. Good Luck! |